sewing: dotty chambray boatneck dress

This post is written by April of Modern Handmade.

Hello imagine gnats readers! I know that I’m not the only one out there that loves fabric. Right? My collection might just be overflowing but when I find something that matches my “personality” I can’t pass it up. Well, when Rachael listed this Robert Kaufman Dotty Chambray (chambray union in indigo dot) in her shop I knew that it had to be mine. And when it arrived, it was so pretty that I very quickly claimed it for myself. Then I had to decide what to make.

I was flipping through my boards on Pinterest for some inspiration and came across this dress that I pinned a long time ago. Could I draft a pattern myself? Using my rub off pattern for the bodice? Yes. Yes I could! A few years ago the answer would have been no. But I’m learning a lot about clothing construction and I felt pretty confident.

A few months ago I did my first rub off pattern. I used my favorite boatneck knit shirt, from H&M. It was a relatively easy process and I definitely recommend it if you have a favorite shirt that you would love to replicate. I had to make some minor adjustments, but it worked and now I have a cute pattern that I was able to use it as the basis for this dress.

Here are the steps that I took to get to the finished dress. I didn’t use a written pattern or tutorial for this. Just sewed it together using the knowledge I’ve gained sewing from so many amazing Indie designer and vintage patterns.

1. Bodice & Sleeves: I altered the rub off pattern so that it would work for a woven fabric. It was originally drafted for knit fabric. I didn’t want the dress to have any closures so I had to make sure it was a nice fit but not to snug. It took about four tries before I had a great fit. At the last minute I ended up adding two darts to the back bodice, just to take it in a little more.

2. Skirt: I didn’t want the skirt to be too full. So I multiplied my hip measurement by 1.25 to get the width. Divided that by 2 to get the front and back skirt piece dimensions. Then I figured out how long I wanted the skirt. I also added in seam pockets because I love pockets!

3. Assembly: Sew bodice, sleeves and side seams. Sew on pockets, side seams for the skirt. Sew gathering stitch for the skirt and gather until it matches the bodice. Sew together bodice and skirt.

4. Finishing: I used bias tape for the neckline, hemmed the sleeves and a blind hem stitch for the skirt.

I am so happy with how the dress turned out. My first successful self-drafted pattern that fits and looks good! The lightweight chambray is just perfect for the hot summer and fall in Southern California. And when the weather eventually cools down I can pair this with a sweater, scarf, tights and boots! A perfect transitional dress.

I have some fabric leftover and I’m thinking I need to sew a dress for Miette or maybe some new shorts for Henri. Maybe both! A family that wears dotty chambray together, stays together. Or something like that!

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