Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Children's Two Tone Chair

On Monday we posted plans for a Children's Two Tone Play Table, and today the most adorable chair to go along side it. I will definitely be building this set, I just can't quite decide who it will be for... the bird or the bug. Probably my older boy, but I'm not entirely sure of my vision for his space just yet. I can finally see the space coming together for the bird, thank gawd, and I can see all of the various pieces I would love to have in his room and it's going to be amazing! Unfortunately he would probably need to move into the master bedroom to make it all of it work so I will be downsizing my 'vision' substantially. Once a dreamer, always a dreamer... Xx... Rayan

Pssst.... I will be starting a fun new project with you all very shortly (hopefully this afternoon, but you know how it goes around here) and I think you are going to like it a lot... stay tuned for the announcement and get your typing fingers ready my friends. That is all I will say for now!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

• Tape Measure
• Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
• Drill
• Countersink bit for Drill
• Square
• Sander
• Kreg Jig
• 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw

• 2 – 2x2 at 8’
• 1 - 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood

• 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4” brad nails
• 1-1/2” screws
• 2-1/2” screws
• Wood filler
• Sandpaper
• Wood glue
• Finishing Supplies

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Cut 7° angles in each piece as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top end of the leg pieces, as well as each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach the legs to the top piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

• 4 – 2x2 at 15-7/8” – Legs
• 2 – 2x2 at 11-7/16” – Leg Frames (Top)
• 2 – 2x2 at 9-5/16” – Leg Frames (Stretchers)
• 2 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Stretchers
• 1 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 11-1/2” – Lower Stretcher
• 1 – ¾” plywood at 7 x 11-1/2” – Back
• 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” - Seat

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the leg assemblies as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher is ripped to 1-1/4” wide so that it can be positioned on the leg perpendicular to the floor and not stick out past the angle of the legs.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the piece for the back. Mark the position for the slots (the center of the holes will be spaced at 5-1/2” on center) and cut a hole at each mark using a 1-1/2” paddle bit or hole saw. Draw a line (vertically) to connect each pair of holes, then cut along the lines with a jigsaw. Cut a 5° bevel in the lower edge of the back piece. This makes the back rest on the seat at an angle making for a comfortable seat!

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure the back to the back edge of the seat using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Position the seat on the frame so that approximately ¾” overlaps the front stretcher and the edge of the back is flush with the back of the arms. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the arms into the back. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the seat to the stretchers.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links