Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Tower Shelving Unit (The Design Confidential)

By special reader request, a tower shelving unit to use as a stand alone bar! Isn't it dreamy? I absolutely love this idea, you guys are so clever! Ps... we will hopefully have our forum back up and running and (fingers crossed) working better than ever here soon. It will be a place you enjoy hanging out I think and the perfect place for you to request plans, ask questions, and share your amazing knowledge!

In the meantime, TDC has partnered with Kleenex to share how lovely their new designs are. Thank you guys for clicking over to check them out. It's partnerships like these that help keep the blog wheels turning and the plans and articles publishing each week! You can see my #KleenexStyle here, as well as another sneak peek of my master bedroom overhaul. It's going to be soooo good you guys! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

$75-$100

Tape Measure
Saw
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

7 – 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 8’
2 – 2x2 at 6’
2 - sheets of ¾” plywood
1 - 8’ piece of decorative trim approx. ¾” x ¾”

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the lower shelves, the lower shelf trim, and the lower legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the trim pieces, as well as all four edges of the shelf pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the shelves to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

6 – 1x2 at 15” – Lower Shelf Trim & Lower Top
4 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Shelf Trim
3 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 27” – Lower Shelves & Lower Top
4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Lower Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/8” x 27” – Lower Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/8” – Lower Sides
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Spacers
3 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Stretchers & Upper Stretcher
1 – 1x2 at 12-1/8” – Lower Divider
2 – 1x2 at 30” – Lower Top Trim
4 – 1x2 at 49-1/4” – Upper Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 49-1/4” – Upper Back
2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 32” – Upper Top
Upper trim cut to fit
2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 27” – Upper Shelves
1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
2 – 1x3 at 26” – Drawer Box Front & Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-7/8” x 12-7/8” – Doors

Cut the piece for the lower back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Install the shelving standards on the upper back locating them approximately 8” from the center of the back. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Install the shelf brackets, then cut the shelves and set in place.

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the side faces of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Position as shown, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the trim pieces and the panel for the lower top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the lower top so that it is flush with the legs, sides, back, and stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher and the shelf trim.

Cut the pieces for the upper legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of two of the legs (for the back) and one end only of the remaining two. Secure them at each corner of the lower top (with the pocket holes facing to the back) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then mark and install the hinges on the legs. Install the cabinet pulls.

Cut the piece for the upper back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the lower top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the upper top. The piece will overhang by 1” at the sides and front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the upper trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim that is chosen. Cut and install the sides first, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut and install the front.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Cher-Ann Texter Designs by Studio C

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Build Plans Retailer Other Type Bookshelves Entertaining Storage Skill Level Beginner Intermediate Cost $75-$100 Room Kitchen Family Office Craft Space Entryway Style Coastal Industrial Farmhouse Global Tools Circular Saw Nail Gun Kreg Jig Miter Saw