Retinol 101

Whether you’re new to the beauty realm or you’ve been in the fold for a long time, chances are you’ve heard at least a horror story or few about retinol. These cautionary tales probably prevented you from ever taking the plunge with a retinol purchase, so we reached out to a couple of skincare geniuses (Chloe McCauley, La Roche-Posay skincare expert and Holly Sherrard, Dermalogica Education Manager) to shed some light on what you should know about this wonder ingredient that can dramatically alter the state of your skin.

what it is

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative, which our skin then converts into retinoic acid, which is beneficial to skin health. Prescription-strength retinol-based products were initially created as a treatment option for acnegenic skin decades ago. After a period of treatment, it was noted that skin had vastly improved and dermatologists began recommending the potent prescription-strength skincare remedy to those concerned with aging.

“There are derivatives in the cosmetic industry that do not require a drug prescription to use and have similar benefits of retinoic acid. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate has been shown to help reverse the signs of aging with minimal or no irritation,” Holly highlights.

what it does

Retinol applied topically plumps skin cells up until they are ready to slough off and this effectively “pushes wrinkles up from within the skin,” explains McCauley.

who it’s for

If you’ve spent a substantial amount of time in the sun, retinol can help you reverse first signs of aging that have resulted from that prolonged sun exposure. The formulations that are widely available today without a prescription are lower in retinol concentration that can be enjoyed by virtually anyone who wants to refine skin texture, battle breakouts and fine lines.

Tips

• Consider gradually introducing your skin to products containing retinol by incorporating a very small amount into your daily moisturizer, increasing the proportion over time. Alternatively, you can try using a retinol product once a week or every other night until your skin adjusts to the retinol concentration level.
• Oily skins tend to have a better tolerance to retinol. “Retinol is a lipophyllic molecule (it loves oil), and is able to have a better interaction on an oily skin. For skins that are drier and want to use retinol without irritations, try applying a facial oil prior to your retinol product,” explains Chloe.
• “It is best to use products with a higher concentration of retinoids at night due to the increase in sensitivity to the sun. And as always, wear SPF of at least 15 to protect the skin from damaging UV rays,” reminds Sherrard.
  

(try these)

RoC Retin-Ox Correxion 5-in-1 Skin Perfector BB Cream, $39: Leave it to a brand that is known for their retinol offerings to launch a daytime-friendly version in the form of an amped-up BB cream. In addition to retinol, which will battle skin imperfections all day long, this formula contains the standard beneficial ingredients such as vitamin C and SPF for brighter, refined skin. londondrugs.com

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Serum, $23: This lightweight serum is an easy addition to your skincare routine that will tackle even deep-set wrinkles with the utmost efficacy (results can be expected in as little as 1 week!) while skin-boosting ingredients prevent irritation and keep skin feeling smooth. Plus—it’s conveniently available at the drugstore. ulta.com

La Roche-Posay Redermic (R), $57: If you’re a sensitive-skinned individual, then this is the retinol formula for you. The formula contains a retinol booster complex comprised of two vitamin A derivatives that are converted into retinoic acid slower, which ultimately means any chance of skin irritation is virtually eliminated. The formula also contains lipo-hydroxy acid, which exfoliates skin for smoother, luminous skin.
ulta.com

Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Serum, $65: The aforementioned gentler vitamin A derivative, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, binds directly to receptors in the skin and works to plump skin cells without irritation or dryness. This formula helps reduce surface roughness and sun-induced aging in skin while boosting skin’s elasticity thanks to skin protein peptides. ulta.com

Kate Somerville RetAsphere 2-in-1 Retinol Night Cream, $85: This formula is a night cream and retinol combined into one product featuring retinol that’s delivered to skin in a lipid shell, meaning the retinol won’t be as drying to skin as it’s absorbed. This cream also boasts hyaluronic acid, which draws moisture from the environment into skin, making it a must for anyone with dry skin who wants to dabble in the retinol realm. sephora.com