Rachel Pinheiro

Behind the seams of Project sewn: Welt and flat felt seams and a few answers about the coat.


Hi darlings,

First of all I really want to THANK U for the love on the pink wrap coat aka Da Bomb. Wow, I cannot believe some many of you voted for me and the amazing feedback. The pattern is very easy and I recommend for beginners. Follow my tips of seams on this post for a professional look.
The secret is picking a fabric that has the same finish on both the right and wrong side, and holds a certain weight. Mine was bought locally and I keep scouting for more as I'm planning a few more. Being a heavy weight fabric , the right needle (jeans) and walking foot are essential. To avoid jamming the start, level behind the presser feet with a bit of fabric folded so it doesn't have a "hill to climb".
The pattern tells you to fold the seams up, finishing with mitred corners. It's an 'ok' way to do it but wrong with my choice of fabric (too bulky). I opted for binding with bias. The side pocket just hangs loose. The fabric doesn't fray so no special treatment besides trimming and reinforcing the seams. I have used this coat a lot and can attest the pocket bags doesn't show when wearing it open unless you really flash the coat. Hello boys! lol!

Let's talk seams:
Flat felt is normally used on jeans. It adds a decorative finish to the coat collar seam.
You can easily identify because the distinctive double row of stitches on the right side. Besides jeans, you can use on garments you plan to be reversible.

With wrong sides together, sew a straight seam, opining your seam allowance. Trim one side of the seam. Turn under the other seam allowance and fold over the trimmed side. Baste in place and stitch through all the layers close to the fold.

Welt seams looks like a topstitched seam, perfect for fabrics that doest fray and work so feel with bulk fabrics like my wool felt.

Sew a straight seam, open it and trim one side of the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open to one side to hide the trimmed edge. Sew through the top fabric fabric enclosing the trimmed edge in. You will see on the right side a line like a topstitched seam.
I really want to write to everyone that comment on my last post but didn't managed yet. Sorry I been so quiet. I been working extra hard for Week 3 of project sewn … let's just say that this happened in the process…


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