I finished my second version of this little boucle Chanel inspired skirt. I learned a lot about working with boucle fabric on this project. I was planning on making a jacket with the pink boucle when I bought it last year, but never did. The fabric was rather thin, some sort of cotton or rayon loose weave. I would have to interface the hell out of it to give it the needed structure for a jacket. But it was perfect for a skirt and after facing it with silk organza, I think it would work for a lightweight jacket after all. To read a more thorough explanation of this technique visit this post where I made a mini Chanel jacket.
This technique is known as MOUNTING A SKIRT. It’s not used very often anymore, but you’ll still find it in really high end dresses and skirts. Mounting a skirt is basting a pattern piece to a stiffer backing piece make the skirt stand away from the body. It’s not a term used anymore, it sounds wierd…. I learned about it in my sewing book from 1960. If you Google it you won’t find anything. I didn’t. I suppose it’s called a backed skirt now maybe?
The challenge with this skirt to get the fabric to behave like an expensive designer wool boucle. The design I had in mind was a full skirt that stood away a little from the body. The first version I made of this skirt was a box pleated skirt that I draped but was off grain and also hung limply and looked sort of sad…. It had taken me hours to make and I was determined to not let this project be a failure!
ORIGINAL SKIRT
After the failed skirt above, I realized that the fabric needed to be underlined and the hem would need to be reinforced with something even stiffer, hair canvas. So I cut up the first skirt and used the leftover fabric to make my new skirt and draped a
I backed the skirt with silk organza, which I stitched onto the skirt in rows about 2 inches apart. This is a process done on Chanel jackets, but with silk charmeuse, to give loose weave fabrics more body and it really works. The organza made my fabric behave in a completely different way. It became pouffy like I wanted, not limp like my first skirt.
Chanel skirt with contrast band.
Like the Chanel skirt above I wanted to add a band to the bottom. But I used the same fabric as the top of the skirt for the band. It doesn’t really show up . Originally , I was going to trim the seamline with some contrasting burgundy trim I bought back when I found this fabric at Micheal Levine in downtown LA, but I couldn’t find it ANYWHERE and I looked everywhere. As a matter of fact, I got so distracted looking for the trim, that I got off track and ended up cleaning out my entire closet area over the next two days, carting off two full garbage bags full of stuff to the Goodwill.
This was how I wanted the trim to look on my skirt ( Chanel skirt) I might still buy some trim and add it. Or maybe I’ll find my lost trim.
The lining is China silk and it has French seams. It feels so luscious on. The zipper was stitched in by hand so there are no visible stitches on the outside. It’s how they did it before invisible zips, I guess.