1930′s Day Dresses, Afternoon Dresses History

Today's post 1930′s Day Dresses, Afternoon Dresses History from Vintage Dancer.

Essential 1930s Fashion Elements

Late 1930′s Afternoon Dress

In previous decades women would change clothes for every activity and for different times of day. As pockets were pinched by the economic decline in the 1930s, clothes that could be worn for

multiple activities began to emerge. While one would not wear one’s house dress out to run errands, fine dresses were marketed as perfect for a day full of different activities. The same 1930′s day dress could be worn from street to afternoon: “from a shopping tour or business, to an important luncheon, tea, or matinee date,” or for “bridge with the girls, dinner, church on Sunday, or an informal evening.”

Afternoon dresses to be worn out of the home for a variety of activities came in many popular styles, but always they strove to adhere to the 1930’s ideal shape, summed up beautifully by this ad (left) for Wards in 1937: “wide shoulders, slim fitted waists, swinging lines.”

1930s Day Dresses (Spring, 1937)

Sleeves, Necklines, and Collars:

1930′s Sleeve Shapes

Dress with matching long sleeve jacket 1938

In the early 1930’s sleeves were usually long and slim, even for juniors dresses. In 1931 and 1932 larger puff sleeves began to appear on the runways in Paris and by 1934 dresses with short shoulder-widening puff sleeves, which became a hallmark of the decade, were what all the popular fashions boasted.

A variety of afternoon dress sleeves were employed to create the effect of wider shoulders, mostly variations of puff sleeves with generous gathers at the shoulder seam. “Capelet” sleeves that looked almost like a little cape when the wearer bent her elbows, a less full “flaring” sleeve and ruffle “butterfly” sleeves, even pleated sleeves were among the other varieties.

Most sleeves on misses and juniors dresses were short, ending at the elbow, in the mid forearm, or higher. Dresses for cooler weather often came with a matching jacket with long sleeves. Dresses for mature and plus-size (called “stout” at the time) women more commonly had long sleeves, along with jackets and coats for all ages. Longer sleeves usually still had generous puffs at the shoulder or at the cuff.

From left to right – Yoke with pleated sleeves — Capelets with fold over collars — Flaring sleeves w/smocked yoke & tie collar- – Puff with lace cuffs fold over collar with bow-tie and ruffle jabot – Double Ruffle Butterfly with fold over collar– Sheer Flutter with shoulder smocking and fold over collar

A “push-up” sleeve style, that could be worn down, like this red dress from winter 1938, or “pushed up” the arm to make a shorter poofier puff, was also in vogue.

Boat neck with “push up sleeves,” half-moon under bust seam, nail head details – 1938

Day Dress Necklines:

V neck with flower, shirring on top of shoulder, Puff sleeves, and V shaped underbust seam

Necklines and collars were also varied but always high, no cleavage of any kind. Many day dresses had folded pointed collars, like the common button up shirts today. The size of the collar varied widely, some were embellished with little tie-like bows or flowers at the neck.

Shirring on top of shoulder, Puff sleeves, “vestee” under deep V neckline, V shaped under bust seam

Yokes, a seam running between the shoulders on the upper chest, were a popular shoulder widening device. Some yokes were created with a patch of shirring,or smocking: both of which are kinds of decorative gathers consisting of two or more rows of gathered fabric. These gathering devices were also used on top of the shoulder between the collar and the sleeve to further increase the visual size of the shoulders.

Boat Neck with shirring, tiny pleats, and braid on the collar, puff sleeves, half moon under-bust seam

Boat necks, squarnecks, mandarin collars, and shallow v’s were other fashionable necklines. Some dresses had a deeper neckline with a false “vestee” underneath giving the illusion of 2 layers.

For plus size fashions, wide shoulder accenting was unnecessary. The V neck and Vestee cut were popular in plus size day dresses because it only added bulk to the center line of the silhouette not the shoulders. Typically puff sleeves, gathers, and very high necklines were avoided on stout or mature women’s fashions. Bulky fabrics and busy prints were also kept to a minimum. The plus size dress below is an excellent example of a 30′s sleek and slim silhouette with period appropriate Vestee and capelet sleeves which does not add extra bulk to the design. It is quite becoming on full figures.

Shop vintage inspired plus size 1930′s dresses here.

Capelet Sleeves, Deep V neck with Vestee, Plus Size Dress 1937

Slim Waists — Belts and Bodice Seams:

1930 Day dresses with drop waist and a boxy fit

Perhaps the most dramatic difference between the fashions of the thirties and the previous decade was the emphasis on the slim waist. At the very beginning of the decade, the flat “boyish” loose shape to the bodice of women’s dresses is still apparent. Though the waist is beginning to return, the style is still rather boxy.

By 1933, the boxy, drop waist look of the 1920’s is completely gone. For the rest of the decade almost every fashion sports a high natural waist accented with a belt. Belts were usually made to match a dress exactly, of the same fabric, and were often attached.

Trapunto detail on upper bodice and sleeve, decorative pin

Some quintessentially 1930’s seams that smooth, flatten and visually shrink the waist, became a 30’s hallmark: an upside-down v-shaped or half-moon shaped seam just under the bust allowing room for one’s bust while the fabric from the torso to the mid-hips were very snug, smooth and fitted. Often the upper bodice had gathers above this seam.

Lots of different kinds of embellishment and detail decorated afternoon dresses to be worn in public: trapunto (a 3-d stuffed kind of quilting), applique, embroidery, fagoting, buttons (fabric covered and metal or even novelty shapes), “nail head” metal studs, faux flowers, decorative pins, lace, pleats, and braided details adorned the collar, bodice, and sleeves. The fashion was to create “interest at the top” of the garment. Skirts were simple lacking decoration, while featuring pleats, gores, and other seam styling.

Zippers were new, novel, and became a common method of fastening and decoration, they were visibly featured on some dresses.

Front featured zipper with ball pull, embroidery details, shirring on top of the shoulder

Swinging Lines — Skirts, Tunics, and Peplums:

1930′s Pleated Dress Skirts

Hemlines went back down after the almost knee-baring 1920’s, to the mid-calf for day dresses. The square drop waist styling disappeared, and skirts for 1930’s day and afternoon dresses were fitted through the hips and flared out from the mid-thigh to the mid-calf. Day dresses boasted a variety of gores, pleats and seam details to slim the hips and create stylish “swing” at the bottom of the skirt. Pleat styles included partially sewn pleats, either across the front or in groups at either side of the front panel, and fully pleated skirts continued to be a perennial classic.

In the early thirties a fitted “hip yoke” was common, an evolution of the 20’s drop waist though much more snug. This style was less popular late in the decade but they were still being made into the late thirties.

Early 1930s Yoke Drop Waist Skirts

1937 Curving Hip Panels

Simple front panel skirt with kick pleats

Another skirt style more common in the first half of the decade were multiple panels that curved up over the hips, very flattering and elegant.

Many skirts were just very simple with one front panel.

Tunic and Peplum Dresses:

Tunic Dress with Rick Rack Trim

In the later 1930’s a tunic style dress became a trend. It was similar in styling to other day dresses but with a long tunic length layer over the skirt. In was both an afternoon or evening look. While many slipped on overhead, others looked like a coat, belted over a simple sheath dress.

Tunic “Coat” Dress

Peplum dress, and Tunic Dress 1937, note the novelty music note shaped buttons

Another similar day dress trend, was a dress that appeared to be two pieces, a blouse with a peplum, (a short overskirt that is attached at the waist of the fitted blouse) and a skirt, but was actually a one piece dress. The peplum was shorter than the tunic top and almost always buttoned up the front. It was a style that gained extreme popularity in the 1940′s.

Day Dress Fabrics:

Wool blend fabrics 85% rayon 15% wool

1930′s Crepe in popular colors

Day dresses were made from several different fabrics. Rayon was new and rapidly became a less expensive alternative to silk and wool. Crepes were very popular — silk crepes and very commonly rayons, or acetate. Sheers, and shantung for spring and wool, wool/rayon blends, and satin on the winter. Cotton was also used, in higher quality percale, shantung and crepe. They could be solids or prints, while house dresses were rarely solids, more sophisticated dresses for being out and about were just as likely to be a solid color with decorative details as a bold print. Floral prints were very popular, but also polka dots, stripes, and some novelty prints were available as well.

Colors for Fall: Plum, Brown, Royal blue, emerald green, goldenrod, grey, black

Colors for Spring: pink, butter yellow, peach, sky blue, orange, tan, white, orchid, rose, medium blue

1930′s Day Dresses Today

Modern styles tend to favor shorter dresses or ankle length maxi dresses. With the 1930′s iconic length ending at mid shin or “tea” length a new 1930′s style dress is a rare find. A shorter, late 1930′s style dress will be easier to find. Otherwise longer “maxi” length dresses can work find if you just have them hemmed up.

My best source for used 1930′s style dresses are thrift stores. Floral print chiffon dresses were popular in the 90′s which means thrift stores have plenty of them. Hemming lengths, adding ruffles and trim, making a matching belt are all easy, thrifty ways to make a 1930′s style dress. I plan to do a tutorial on this soon, just like I did for 1920′s thrifted costumes. If you are more handy with a needle and thread consider sewing a day dress from one of these patterns. This links also includes additional resources on hiring someone to make you a custom dress.

If sewing isn’t your skills, and thrifting scares you, don’t worry. I keep an eye online for modern does vintage 1930′s style dresses and link to them for sale here. Many are day dress styles while evening styles can be found here.

Here are a few examples of 1930′s inspired day dress: