Debbie @ VintageDancer.com

1940s Fabrics and Colors in Fashion

Today's post 1940s Fabrics and Colors in Fashion from Vintage Dancer.

It is rare today to see much clothing some in a vast assortment of prints like they were in the 1940s. It’s difficult to describe what is a 1940s print vs another decade simply because there were so many designs, styles and colors. In the early 40’s when WW2 restricted fabric production most clothing came in solid colors in a limited palette. Most suits, sports clothing, work clothing, and separates were solid colors. Prints were mostly for casual dresses, playsuits, blouses and children’s clothing.

When sewing your own 1940s clothing its important to pick fabric and trim in the color palette of the 1940s. This guide will help you get a sense of the common colors, fabrics and prints in women’s fashion. I also have links to buying fabrics, patterns and notions towards the end too.

1940s Colors

1940s classic clothing colors

While colors came in and out of fashion for most of the decade there was a certain set that were considered “classics.” These were mostly primary colors- strong, bold, and vibrant. Year round colors were navy blue, brown, beige, black, red, green (kelly green, mint green, Aqua green), grey, rose pink, copen blue (a medium blue), white and golden yellow. In the summer lighter versions of these colors were common: pastel pink, pastel yellow, pastel blue, etc.

1948 Wool Suiting fabrics in rib crepe, flannel, textured shetland, and twill. Colors: mint green, gold, copen blue, Violet, Aqua, Coral, green, grey, rose wine, red, pink, black, Navy and cocoa brown.

1944 sporting fabrics- gabardine, twill and textured “butcher” linen. Solid colors ” Navy blue, brown, red, beige, Dusty rose pink, yellow, kelly green, copen blue and white.

1940s Fabrics

Rayon, the newly improved fabric that could be made to look and feel like almost any expensive fabric on the market was the most popular choice for home sewers. In winter wool and wool blends made up suits, skirts and outerwear. I am not that great at trying to describe the difference between one fabric and another so here is my best attempt as some of the staple fabrics:

Cotton: Soft or stiff cotton could be light and airy (voile,) covered in embroidered holes (eyelet,) broadcloth (sturdy and basic), twill (thick with a subtle texture) and seersucker (a waffle weave common in summer stripes.) Cotton is easy to sew with, easy to wear and with care lasts a long time. It is prone to fading with frequent laundering.

Fun prints in cotton

Jersey: A very soft knit cotton or Rayon material usually worn in the fall or winter since it is also rather warm.

Silk: A rare and expensive fabric for most of the 1940s since it was needed to make parachutes and other military supplies. It is very light and shiny which makes it popular for semi formal and evening attire. A shiny Rayon was a poor man’s alternative.

1947 night and day silks. Large and small flowers, and one very MOD art design.

Velvet: Velvet made another great evening gown materials in winter. It’s not nearly as heavy as most velvet fabrics are today. Such a shame! It’s one of my favorites!

Net: Net was used in most bridal gowns, bridal party dresses, and prom dresses in the 1940’s. It was light, sheer and voluminous. Printed net was very popular although from a distance the print is hardly noticeable.

1944 Flocked net for Bridal or Party Gowns

1944 net fabrics for brides and party gowns. Striped printed net, flocked dot net, and plain color nets.

Flannel: When I think of flannel I think of cozy winter bed sheets. In fashion, flannel, is a soft but sturdy material frequently used and men’s and women’s suits and separates. Its breathable and light which makes it very comfortable!

1948 wool and rayon blend uistings in flat, crepe, flannel and gabardine textures. Black and white or brown and white checks were very common.

1940s Prints

There are some classics prints that are part of the 1940s, just as they were in the 1920s to 1960s too. They scream “vintage” whenever I make a dress with one.

White polka dots on solid color background

Polka Dots: Classic polka dots were common in the 1920s through the 1960s. Small and large, the 1940s, for the most part, preferred small dot prints. Dots on white was especially common in summer although white dots over colors were an option year round, especially as the dots grew larger. When sewing a 1940s dress you can’t go wrong with using a polka dot fabric. They are very popular among ready made retro dresses.

1948 spring cotton fabrics in small prints, dots, checks, stripes and solids.

Plaid: In winter plaid was queen! But is was also popular in spring and summer too. The biggest fans of plaid were students and stay at home moms. Plaid skirts were part of every teen and woman’s wardrobe. Plaid jumper or pinafore dresses were in very girls closet too. Plaid cotton day dresses were made into any style imaginable. In winter dark tartan plaids conveyed winter warmth while pastel plaids were ideal for spring. You don’t see many repro 1940s dresses made in plaid which is a shame because it is another very 40’s, very classic, and easy to find print.

1948 woven cottons in plaid, checks and stripes for spring.

1944 Wool plaids made in jersey or twill texture.

Classic Stripes and Checks over white background

Stripes: Small vertical stripes were another iconic design that is still easy to find in fabric stores today. Some stripes could be wide, but mostly they were a nice narrow with (not tiny pinstripes.) Just like polka dots they were usually on a white background. Blue, red, brown, green, pink and yellow stripes made up the bulk of summer fashions. In the later 1940s stripes were incorporated into fabrics with flowers and other motifs spread over them like vines. They also become more common as multi colors stripes prints.

Checks: Very small check, often called gingham, was the other classic 1940s print. They were equally popular in summer (again on white) as well as in suits for winter. Black and white checks or brown and white check tweed fabric was a staple for many women’s suits and overcoats.

1947 Checks in Rayon or Cotton

Florals: When I think of 1940s prints I think of small flower patterns. Writing this article has reminded me that while small flowers were very common, so were medium and large flowers too. The 1950’s embraced extar large flower prints so steer clear of those but nearly any other size will work for the 1940s. The difference between 40s flowers and 30s or 50s flowers is in the artistic rendering and colors. 1940’s florals were vibrant, not subtle. They were not realistic but a splash of an artists paint brush. “Paint Brushed” designs were iconic of 1940s styles where as the 1950s liked more “cute” or comical designs and the 1920s and 1930s more art deco shapes. To identify the difference between each decade is a lengthy lesson in art history, which I will spare you today. Instead here are a bunch of floral prints to give you the right idea:

1944 Shantung textures in cotton and rayon blend prints

1940s Rayons in floral prints and plaids. Crepe and poplinette. New colors: Gold, grey, Lilac, Lime, Coral and Black

1948 sheer cottons for summer dresses- Dimities, batiste, voiles and lawns. Small flowers on white background were in fashion this year.

1948 percale cotton prints and solids.

1948 rayon jersey for dresses. Drapes well in both classic prints and screen printed abstract flowers.

1948 textured summer dress cottons in Poplin, Pique, Seersucker, or Plisse.

1947 tweeds and floral prints

1944 Border prints in Broadcloth with butterfly, rayon prints in flowers and leaves, and heather rayon prints in class stripes, dots, and checks.

1944 Rayon sheer fabrics (L) and Jersey rayon (R)

The abstract art movement was making way into fashion by the late 1940s. Squiggly lines, interpretations of nature scenes, multi color stripes, and even paisly made an appearance. These are the designs that make up the bulk of 1950s prints as well.

1948 Rayon shantung, seers, woven Taggeta dn seersucker. Paisley prints! Abstract designs. Plaids and checks.

Fabric Trims:

An equally important part of women’s fashion was the trim that embellished dresses, blouses and skirts. White lace, Ric-rack or eyelet ruffle edging was the most popular way to decorate a casual dress. Most semi formal dresses and suits didn’t attach trim in the from of ruffles but made use of contrasting fabric, embroidered designs, pleats, drape and cording to add decoration.

Ribbon for hats and big bows on girls dresses. White eyelet lace for ruffles and edgings. Ric-Rac came in red, green, royal blue, or white.

Where to buy 1940s fabrics:

Here are some sites that sell vintage fabrics:

You don’t have to go with vintage fabrics for your clothing. I usually shop my local fabric stores first and see what I can find that closely resembles 1940s colors and patterns. Sticking to the “classic” prints will be easier than looking for a floral print. However a quick search on fabric.com found me a few 1940s style options I like:

1940s style fabric prints at Fabrics.com

Vintage notions for sale:

Where to buy 1940s patterns:

There are a handful of reproduction pattern makers and each have their own level of difficulty. I recommend doing an online search for a review of a pattern before buying one. Also patternreview.com is an excellent source for reviews and online sewing lessons.

Where do you find fabric, patterns and notions? Let me know, so I can add to these lists!

The post 1940s Fabrics and Colors in Fashion appeared first on Vintage Dancer.

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