SS15: PREVIEW

It is quite a something to recap all the shows and list all the new trends (or if I may say variations since this season didn’t offer major shifts). But there are still things that I want to point out. One of them is this recurring theme “soft lines vs hard lines” seen everywhere between Paris and Milan. Tracking down the exact reasons of such a momentum can be compared to some sort of archeology exercise. Nonetheless, it’s clear to me that the new generation of designers, from Astrid Andersen to Rick Owens including Juun J and Damir Doma (to only list my favorites), had a significant influence on the evolution of this silhouette. They have invariably showcased new habits and genres influencing designers (and consequently the market) to understand what men need nowadays. 1. Salvatore Ferragamo – Bottega Veneta – Carven Salvatore Ferragamo continues to explore delicately its African themes developed for their last FW14 collection. Their “saharienne” (so Yves Saint Laurent circa 1970) cut in delicate fabrics gives to this military staple a very romantic touch. Thomas Maier at Bottega Veneta deconstructed the silhouettes playing with contrasts between looser shoulders and legs and a more tailored waistline. Again, romanticism is key. Guillaume Henry, newly appointed head designer at Carven, (…)