Portland Fashion Week: A Night of Couture, Bridal and Slight Confusion
In case you were at Adam Arnold's, show at MoCC last Wednesday, here's what you missed at Portland Fashion Week, Day 2:
(Full Disclosure: I was a participating designer in night one of PFW.)
The show started off with a b-e-a-utiful performance by violinist Aaron Boscanin, who played "The Merry Go Round of Life" accompanied by pianist Esther Shim, followed by a solo rendition of "The Devil's Laughter." This was an exceptional, unexpected treat that I hated to see (hear) end. Then each designer was required to film an interview as an introduction to their collection, which made an already l o n g fashion show even longer. The intention was no doubt to showcase the participants as much as possible, but the commemorative magazine could have benefited from more information instead. Designers were also asked to add a surprise element to their show, which has potential to add pizazz, but maybe it should have had a time limit?
Sunjin Lee opened up with a "wedding night" look that had the model topped off with a late 19th century military style hat. The rock 'n' roll inspiration that Sunjin spoke of in her video was shown through black straps, veils, knee-high clunky strappy sandals, and a final look that had potential to rock the runway if only it had appeared more finished. Previous collections from her have explored a fresh take on Portland bridal, with fine (silk) fabrics and consistency in the finishing details, for instance rolled seams to polish the neckline; here some were finished, some weren't.
Portland Fashion Week has an emerging designer contest each season, and this installment brought 15-year-old Katherine Miles, whose braces really delivered the cuteness. When asked if she makes her own patterns (a few of the looks appeared to be simply dyed vintage petticoats and embellished salvaged bustiers) she said, "Yes, I use a lot if vintage fabrics and bases for some of my designs; I like to reuse what's been thrown out." But said she mostly does make her own patterns. If this is her first collection, it's no surprise that she wanted to show a mixture of ideas, thus making the cohesion sort of lacking. The mirrored crowns were exciting and could have directed a collection quite nicely. Overall, I think she's one to check back in with in a few years after more experience and discipline.
Next up was Kimmi Designs. This collection was confusing; there were dresses made from "lace" that should never be incorporated into a garment (when my Grandma finally took down those curtains from *Newberrys, we all cheered), and a sweet pink dress thrown in here and there. The final look added a whole new meaning to "put a bird on it."
Sonia Kasparian of Urchin Redesign is the master of making one-of-a-kind gowns. She knows how to manipulate those delicate (sometimes antique) fabrics, truly making each piece a work of art, and damn she knows the female body and how to fit her garments so they embrace the form that carries them; whether they be salvaged materials or not, she can create eye candy with anything. The color palette, the intricate hand work, the stability of each gown as it cascades down the runway, her work is genuine fashion design. This is what it's all about people!
Then she goes and does her thing with lingerie.
After the intermission, we were surprised with another performance, this time by a teenaged boy playing keyboard and singing a couple of covers. I could have gone without this. (We were closing in on hour two at this point.)
Wendy Ohlendorf presented her Metropolis-meets-Blade Runner inspired collection of interesting silhouettes. Her models' heads were adorned with extravagant show stopping head pieces by Teri Winfield. Her prints were tasteful and her ideas were clear. It's learned with no surprise that she's a nominee for emerging designer as part of the Portland Fashion and Style Awards. Her segment of the operation included Adam Hurst playing live cello on stage in lieu of a dj'd soundtrack. Holler Wendy O. Holler.
Then there's O'Pearl...This was by far the utmost confusing part of the evening.
Oscar Dominick was another emerging designer winner, who was an intern with PFW in the past. His collection was well designed and he also showcased spectacular accessories with his looks. He used leather (or really authentic looking vegan leather?) throughout, but I really wish he'd have incorporated more of that beaded fabric that was used for a fringed skirt.
The show appropriately closed with Devonation's designs that had a mass amount of fabric choices as well as a color palette that rode the rainbow. I particulary liked the tights that were paired with the looks; they all had seams just below the knee that added an innovative touch (Some had holes, and whether they were intentional or not, it worked.). There were also a variety of silhoettes which were brought together with layers of both ruffled and pleated chiffon, jersey hoods and other details that made each piece feel like it belonged with the others. The red chiffon layered on top of the aqua chiffon in two of the garments was gorgeous and the amount of work that went into this collection is what makes fashion shows worth going to.
The tents on the square were a smart move this season as far as a venue goes. Having the fresh air pouring in was a huge plus and although backstage was a little cramped, it worked! The producers would be smart to add this to their list of venues to revisit. The American Idol-like performance could have at least been slimmed down to one song, but really one performer per night would have sufficed.
It's obvious that this event focuses more on emerging designers. It would be rewarding to see more focus on the quality of the workmanship and the investment in making sure novice designers know all the ropes. Jessica Kane, the Executive Director of PFW is a very nurturing lead, so it's not surprising that everyone is accepted; furthermore, it's important to point out that the people behind the curtain are professional, accommodating and try their hardest to make it a great experience for everyone involved, whether you're a designer, model, volunteer or attendee. Let's close by agreeing that the restrooms were smaller than last season, but a huge upgrade from the Memorial Coliseum's basement biffys. That will forever haunt me.
*Newberry's was a preWal-Mart- store that used to inhabit the space where Dollar Tree now is, across the street from Lloyd Center. It was an everything store that both my grandmas bought everything (cheap) from.
