Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Mei Freestanding Towel Rack

I am kinda obsessed with crossing things off my list, and this set of woodworking plans will do precisely that. We have an awkward setup for our shower and bath where both units sit a bit too far away from the nearest towel bar and both units are surrounded by tile so installing an additional rack in a more ideal location is, well, less than ideal. This means we ultimately set our towels on the nearest surface and naturally this results in a slightly wet towel for drying off. In the warmer months this isn't as much of a big deal, unless it causes those cute towels to mildew. In the colder months around these parts, having to choose between walking to retrieve your towel while wet and cold or using a wet towel to dry off from the wet and cold, makes me moderately insane. Like the eye twitching kind of insanity... naturally. I don't know why builders don't consider these things when they plan out a home, but luckily there is a solution to this within these project plans for this freestanding towel rack. Yahoo!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

• Tape Measure
• Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw
• Drill
• Countersink Drill Bit
• 1/2 Inch Spade Bit - (Spade Bit Set – 3/8”-1”)
• Square
• Sander
• Kreg Jig
• Brad Nailer

• 3 – 1x2 at 8’
• 1 – 1x10 at 8’
• 1 - 3/8” Wooden Dowel Rod at 8’

• 1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws
• Edge banding - optional
• Clamps
• Safety Gear
• Wood filler
• Wood glue
• Sanding Supplies
• Finishing Supplies

• 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Base Sides
• 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Base Back
• 6 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Slats
• 2 – 1x10 at 42” – Sides
• 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Crossbar
• 3 – 3/8 Wooden Dowels at 23” – Towel Rods

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut the pieces for the Base Sides and Base Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Base Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Slats. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Next, cut the pieces for the Sides. The arc shape for the Side will begin 2” from the bottom of the 1x10. Draw an arc shape as shown. In the image we have a 134” radius arc and a 135” radius arc. You don’t have to make this exact arc - what is really important is that it is a gentle curve that takes up most of the width of the 1x10.

Next, mark a horizontal line 2” from the top of the 1x10, then another line 8” down from the previous line, and then a final line 8” from the second line – these lines will note the locations for the ends of the Towel Rods. With a 1/2” spade bit, drill approximately 1/4” deep at the center of the 3 locations specified. Repeat this process on your second Side, but as a “mirror image,” so that each Side will arc the same way with holes facing the inside of the Towel Stand. Using your jigsaw, cut out the shape in the diagram. Apply edge banding to the edges of each Side if desired. Assemble to the Base Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Crossbar. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Crossbar. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Towel Rods. Before assembly, paint the Towel Rods a metallic color to look like real metal. Position each Rod into the pair of drilled holes. Assemble as shown with glue and clamp until dry.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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