Eating our way around Germany’s Christmas Markets
This time last year, I was gallivanting around Germany, drinking their entire supply of Gluwhein and eating all the sausages, with my now husband and then soon-to-be mother in law. Bar a short visit to New Zealand earlier in the year, this was the first time I got to know Jono’s mum. Happily for me, the thirst for new experiences (and gluwhein…) runs in the family, so we got to know each other while tasting our way through Germany’s Christmas markets, and moving from city to city every few days. From Nuremberg’s postcard perfect traditional Christkindlesmarkt to Dresden’s beautiful medieval-style market to Berlin’s elegant huts under a palace, Germany was, quite possibly, the most perfect run up to Christmas you could imagine.
This post is an edited version of one I wrote earlier this year, but I wanted to revisit it as it feels relevant for anyone planning any European travels and, as there are quite a few new readers around these parts I thought you might like it. Enjoy!
Kartoffelpuffer at Frankfurt Christmas Market
As the first stop on our German trip, Frankfurt was a stopover that we weren’t really expecting very much from. It was here that we tasted our first bratwurst, sipped on our first glüwhein and finally saw what all the fuss about German Christmas Markets was really about.
By the river and just on the edge of the old town, what appears to initially a small market turns out to be a continuous row of huts which just keeps going through the old town. The markets have quite a local feel and despite Frankfurt being an international hub, there were far fewer tourists than I’d expected. Feasting on delicious sausages, deep-fried potato cakes and chocolate-covered fruit (and chilis!), Frankfurt was a delicious introduction to Germany that I’d highly recommend anyone passing through Frankfurt this winter stops off and enjoys!
Stollen meets strudel (and they make sweet, tasty babies) at Nuremberg Christmas Market
Nestled in the pretty Bavarian town of Nuremberg is probably our favourite Christmas market of all. Here that we were introduced to the Nuremberg rostbratwurst, a smaller sausage which should be eaten three-in-a-bun or on a plate at a minimum of six, and the heavenly creation of stollen-strudel; a soft, warm, buttery, apple-y, raisin-y cake thing. The culinary adventures continued with chocolate-wrapped nougat balls and eggnog in edible ice-cream cone cups, plus plenty of glüwhein to wash it all down with.
Nuremberg stole our hearts with its markets, and its stalls of decorations, a particular highlight being tiny people made out of prunes and walnuts. But it was the whole feel of the town with its Clydesdale horses clopping along the streets, the friendly people and the lively buzz that made Nuremberg’s Christmas markets extra special.
Rauchbier at Bamberg Christmas Market
We made it to Bamberg, just about. A classic little town with UNESCO world heritage status, Bamberg was a fairy-tale like village and the markets were just as magical. But the particular highlight of Bamberg was the smoked beer.
Now, I couldn’t remember what the word for smoked beer was so I decided to ask someone. I walked up to a stall lady and asked her, very clearly, how to say smoked beer in English. She looked at me like I’d already had a few too many then answered, in perfect English, “Erm, smoked beer.”
It took several moments of me looking confused, before I realised what I’d asked. Oh! Right! No. Not in English. In German. Whoops. Sorry sorry. This debacle led to us trying our first ‘rauchbier’ concoction mixed with glüwhein. It was a delicious combo and later we knew what to ask for at a small pub. The smoked beer itself tastes a bit like sausages. Which is a good thing, honest.
Half-metre sausages at Rothenburg Christmas Market
Hungry for more Christmas market joy we made our way to the little village of Rothenburg. A popular place for tourists to visit, we heard much more English and French here than anywhere else as the tiny town was filled to the brim with people. It also happened to be the worst day for weather as the sleet that came down sideways in tiny icicle form. So we hid away in a cafe eating strudel and drinking coffee till it blew over.
In Rothenburg we saw beautiful handmade wooden figurines, cuckoo clocks and decorations. Then Jono spotted the half-metre sausages and, well, you know what happened next…
Let them eat…plates… at Dresden Christmas Markets
Dresden is famous for its Christmas markets, which are often described as some of the best in Germany. Having been impressed enough, this would be quite the challenge for Dresden to match. The city, which is stunning, is home to plenty of them but, when we first arrived, we weren’t convinced the markets were quite as good as the others. Maybe because of its fame, the central market, had a little less personality and felt a little more geared to tourists than some of the others we’d visited.
The following day however we went on a walking tour to learn more about the history of Dresden and along the way found out about its other Christmas markets including a fantastic medieval market. This one we loved and as the night wore on we wandered from market to market, from glüwhein to glüwhein, feeling more and more charmed by this old city the more time we spent there, eating everything in site, including the edible plates.
Eating…ALL THE THINGS…. at Berlin Christmas Markets
As the final stop on our Christmas market tour, I half expected Berlin to be the icing on the Christmas market cake (which may possibly the tastiest cake every made if your think about it – combine stollen and strudel and gluwhein – can you imagine?) And also half expected it to be a bit like the Paris Christmas Markets, shiny on the outside with not much on the inside. At first sight, it was the latter. The markets we found in Aleksanderplatz and Potsdamer Platz were nice but had less soul than those we’d experienced in Nuremberg and Frankfurt.
Still, after another phenomenal walking tour again, we discovered others, which put Berlin back on an even keel. The elegant Christkindelmarket in the Gendarmemarket, and the even more beautiful market, a little further out, by Charlottenburg palace. Since this was the end we decided we had to eat everything, just in case we never got to again.
And then, our German adventure ended. For anyone considering doing a Christmas market tour, or even just a visit to one German city in winter, stop thinking, do it. Germany fast become one of my favourite places in the world and we both have it in the back of our minds that if one day an opportunity came up that took us back to Germany, we would certainly entertain it.
Have a beautiful Christmas everyone, wherever you may be.
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