This is Sunday in Kars. Outside of the city, by the river and on hillsides, parked by the road, half-sheltered in the ruins of a church, hunkered beneath the castle -- groups of men, grilling. Here a...
Not listed in your guidebook: a typical scene in an Istanbul neighborhood You might have done a double-take when you read that title. Service-y lists are definitely not our thing. Lists are the sort ...
An on-time touchdown and a friendly taxi driver from Malatya who cheerfully helped with our bags and wished us a pleasant day with a smile. Milky blue skies and a gently warming sun. Through our wind...
It rained buckets our first evening in Kota Bharu. We sat in our room sipping vodka we'd brought from Penang, watching the sky turn from mud to black and waiting for the rain to stop. It didn�...
The best ruammit ever, in Gat Luang's Don Lam Yai Market In addition to our cross-country American travels in March and April, for the last few months we've been in the thick of a time-cons...
The view from LIC's old freight yards, now a park Four weeks ago we sat in an airline lounge in Singapore bitching about Americans. The source of our ire was a fellow American, a businessman wra...
Way back in July we spent some time in Kota Bharu, the capital city of Kelantan state, in the northeast of the peninsula, working on a feature story for Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia's September...
We rarely devote this space to advertising thought we'd make an exception for this --- a darned fine opportunity for anyone hoping to pursue travel writing as a career. This summer World Nomads ...
We had the best intentions for one, maybe even two posts this week. But relatives arrived, work piled up, travel plans had to be made, life got in the way. It happens. In a couple days we all depart ...
After 120 kilometers of arctic nothingness we found ourselves in Çorum [cho-ruhm], a surprisingly bustling little city set in the middle of northern-central Anatolian nowhere. If Çorum is known to fo...
If you've ever purchased a fancy skewer or mottled copper kettle in the United States, there's a good chance it came from Kahramanmaraş, aka Maraş [pronounced mah-RAHSH], in southeastern Tu...
A divine Malay lunch at International Hotel, Transfer Road As we were wrapping up a little over three weeks in Turkey a piece we worked on last Oct/Nov ran in NY Times Travel. If you missed it, the l...
It's snowing! In Istanbul! And with big fluffy flakes drifting down outside our window, now seems the perfect time to tell you about boza. Thought to have been invented in the 10th century or th...
"Milky" almonds and walnuts for sale on a stretch of highway north of Aksaray, Turkey Each time we come to Turkey I'm more and more convinced that most Americans (and probably many...
Menemen worth suffering a traffic jam for When it comes to Brunch (organized brunch, eating-out brunch and -- especially -- Brunch as Buffet) we have one rule: we don't. Ever, anywhere. It'...
A classic Hainanese coffeeshop breakfast: coffee and charcoal-grilled toast with butter and kaya,usually accompanied by a soft-boiled egg About eighteen months ago Dave and I were approached by the e...
It's only Wednesday and already it's been a long week. The kind of week that makes me wish I had a regular watering hole, a comfortable spot where they know me and I know them, where it...
We began noticing them on the drive from Inebolu to Sinop: single-story timber structures raised from the ground, supported by what look like rough-hewn tables you might see in a cowboy theme-y bar. ...
You certainly wouldn't call Saray the friendliest pide salonu in Turkey. When we walked in, hungry after a morning of shopping on empty stomachs for edible souvenirs like rough bulgur pasta and ...
A few years ago we spent Christmas in a small rural town in Pampanga, Philippines for Saveur magazine. It was one of most memorable, Christmas-y Christmases ever with lots of good cheer and heaps of ...
From bufe to plate. We never road trip in Turkey without packing plates, bowls and a few basic utensils. That bountiful corner store and bakery in Amasya (top shot) and plate of gorgeous arugala are ...
The Istanbul-bound flight out of Singapore arrives in the wee hours. Even after we've hit up airport Duty Free, fought the traffic to Beyoglu and dropped our bags in our usual stay in Cihangir i...
One of the best things Vietnam has going for it is coffee. I'm certain that the easy availability of a cup or iced glass of rich chocolate-y coffee almost any time of the day or night, for the e...
Mr. Singh came to Gat Luang's Namdhari Sikh gurdwara from Bangkok and, before that, Punjab. For six years he's been priest and cook at this eighty-year-old center of Namdhari worship in the...
Two weeks ago we found ourselves working on a story at a posh resort in northern Thailand. It was the type of gig that strangers, when I tell them I write about food and travel, envision as they repl...
No doubt about it, we are very, very behind. Behind in posting from our autumnal travels in Turkey and from our rainy season time in Chiang Mai. And in posting from Hanoi, and Kelantan before that, a...
Last January, en route from hamsi (anchovy) node Sinop to Ankara we made an 18-hour pitstop in Kastamonu, capital of the Turkish province of the same name. The sky was dull gray and the sub-zero wind...
Famous Taşköprü garlic, Turkey, October 2011 Market in Mardin, Turkey, June 2010 This is the second post in a series that we're running every Tuesday through early December.All images in the ser...
We love hamsi. If you've been a visitor here since last January you know this. You know that we journeyed to Turkey's Black Sea coast in the middle of winter just to eat hamsi -- anchovies ...
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