Vogue 9095 - The Jacket Pattern Alterations

This is a recently released pattern and though it's similar to the iconic Vogue 7975, I really like the shawl collar option that's View C. Ages ago, pre-blogging days, I made a navy blue pinstripe jacket and dress combo using a shawl collared jacket that I really liked wearing. This view of the pattern brings back those pleasant memories.

Vogue 9095 - View C - Shawl collar version

Front & back line drawings
I started out making two versions of this jacket from the remaining black fabric from this outfit:

Now I know you're wondering why two versions ~ well it's because I got this idea in my head that I can't shake. I want the shawl collar and bands to match the brocade skirt I just completed. While this will be an awesome suit (and probably my Easter outfit this year), it's not really a standard black suit. So I'm making the jacket twice ~ once fancy and once standard ~ especially since I already have the black pants in that fabric which will make a great pantsuit.

However, after laying the fabric out, I will only be able to make one jacket. So I'm going with the plainer version of the jacket because it's the more practical wardrobe choice. I think I'll have enough leftover to make a simple elastic waist skirt which will give me several mix and match opportunities.

Next pattern alterations...

This pattern has a lot of pieces to it which means a lot of fitting opportunities. After tissue fitting the main pieces and the band to my body, I decided to add an inch in length because I didn't like where the hem of the jacket was hitting my body.

• So one inch was added at the lengthen/shorten line.
• The hip measurement didn't fit my body so 1/2 inch was added to each front pattern piece by cutting and spreading.
• I only added to the front piece because that's where I still carry most of my weight.
• The bands will need to be adjusted but I'm waiting for the jacket fronts and backs to be stitched to make the alterations to the bands.
• I added a center back seam to the jacket even though the pattern has a solid back piece.
• I added 1/2 inch curves at the sides of the sleeve pieces to accommodate my still bodacious biceps.

I think that's everything. I did a lot of flat measuring and tissue fitting and now I'm moving onto cutting out the fabric...well more like procrastinating but after such a busy week it's taking me a minute to get back into the groove.

There will probably be a construction post for this jacket before the reveal. There is still soooooo much left to do for this jacket ~ the lining and the pattern alterations to the bands. I just don't want to cut the lining or the bands until I'm sure that the jacket shell will fit.

That's where I am right now. Will probably spend all day today in the sewing cave. I'm hoping to get this closer to the finish line sooner rather than later!

Oh and can I share my new obsession with you? Well I'm gonna anyway! *LOL*

I'm totally obsessed with the show, Empire. So much so that I purchased the soundtrack from iTunes and have been blasting it while I've been in the sewing cave today! So you know where I'll be Wednesday evening - glued to my television watching the season finale!

...as always more later!