Handmade by Carolyn

handmadebycarolyn.com.au · Feb 27, 2015

Inseam arrow welt pockets

My example shows a skirt pocket with a 16cm length opening edge bordered by 1cm width welts, although obviously all measurements can easily be altered to give any width of welt or pocket desired.

Apply a strip of iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of the garment, where welt pockets are to be situated.
Fold bias cut welt strips wrong sides together and press, pin to the stitching line of the garment edge; with folded edges to the outside. Mark the upper and lower points of the long edge stitching line. It is essential that the upper and lower markings on each welt be as square as possible and give exactly the same length on each side; in this example, the stitching lines are 14cm long.
Stitch, starting from exactly the upper marking on each welt and finishing exactly at the lower marking. It is most important that your stitching be an even width from the outer folded edge of the welt, rather than the cut edges.
Snip the seam allowances of the garment from the raw edge in to the first and last stitches of the previous stitching, taking care to not cut into the welt.
Turn the seam allowances of the welt inside the garment and press.
Mark on the folded edge of the welt the upper and lower tips of the arrowhead, in this example 1cm out from each stitching line for a 16cm finished pocket opening.
Turn out the garment over the welt again, with the snipped seam allowance splayed over the welt and raw edges squared. Pin through from the previous marking to determine where the short seam will end, secure seam allowance to welt with another pin.
Stitch from the snip point diagonally out to the marked top point.
Turn welt back out, press; stitch the remainder of the garment seam from the upper/lower points of the welt out; press open.
Pocket pieces; in this case I pieced the wider pocket piece with a strip of the self-fabric at the opening edge; this is the under pocket piece that will sit under my hand in situ.
From inside; open out the welt again and pin the relevant pocket pieces right sides together to the seam allowances of the welts. Stitch pocket pieces to the welt SA from underneath the welts ie. with interfacing uppermost. This is to ensure that your stitching goes directly and exactly over the previous welt stitching line.
Stitch the pocket pieces together and finish edges.
From the right side of the garment, stitch in the ditch through all layers along the two short diagonal edges of the arrowhead.
And, ta da! finished!

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