San Andrès, a mexican heart with a glam attitude
The reasons, mainly instinctive and emotional.
On the one hand the memory, still live on the images of the last show, which ended ‘some’ time ago now and on the other, the fragmented and colorful San Andrès’s heart, the one I’d like to take as the emblem of my Milan Fashion Week.
The worthy culmination of a week full of energy, innovation and good feelings.
In the mirrored paneled walls of the Versace Theater in Piazza Petra 7, we wait for the show to start o wrapped and muffled into a disco atmosphere – strobe and gently Seventies pattern projections – make the wait light and pleasant.
Light, pleasant and appealing as it is confirmed to be the entire collection.
Not at all obvious and never boring. Measured, but not too serious. Feminine and never coy. A collection that speaks to many types of women. Either those deeply fashionable and in step with the times or the ones with a ladylike soul, with no age limit, who don’t like to take things too seriously.
It is not a coincidence that the San Andrès’s heart is Mexican – and from his country he takes over the traditional essence and the ability to combine colors and shades that might seem impossibile to combine - but his mood is incredibly glamorous and contemporary.
His collection is a menabò of styles and trends sewn together by the expert tailoring hand of a cotourier with the most modern and inviting vein.
An attitude that he doesn’t forget even when he fall in being tempted to enrich shoes and accessories with details of fur. Subtle decollete are embellished with elements in ton sur ton hair and flat shoes find a trendy and unusual dimension.
But there is much more.
There are coats in multicolor fur, worn discovering shoulders: something a cross between a shawl and a wrap that discover the silhouette emphasizing the waist with a belt.
Lamè fabrics that become jacquard details on suit made of mini and midi skater skirts.
Knitwear, whose bright colors on dark backgrounds, remind us that the use of color is an art wise.
The fitting and styling is cared and accurate, without loosing that pleisure in adding a note of leisure and happiness that every show should always have.
And it is a ladylike, carefree and frivolous woman, which introduces us to the final catwalk with surprise.
Models walk out wearing a mask over their eyes that remind us that to impress and hit you don’t need to take it too seriously.
The refined and cheekined San Andrés’s woman make the sewing and hand-assembled heart, beat; a nice insight that I like to think has driven all the collection, that seems designed, from start to finish, with love.
