How to Build an Outdoor Octagon Coffee Table with Lattice Legs

Hi, it’s Amy from Hertoolbelt back with another DIY build for your outdoor space (or family room). I have some big plans for the back yard this spring and summer, including a new outdoor seating area. On the To-Do list is an outdoor coffee table for the seating area. The inspiration for this octagon coffee table design comes from this beauty. I love all of the X’s. Knowing this is going outside and will become weather worn, I greatly simplified the build. Building an octagon is so much easier than a circle, and I changed the X’s to a lattice effect (like my favorite bench).

Watch the video and download the building plan below — be sure to subscribe to the Remodelaholic YouTube channel for new tutorials every week!

How to Build an Outdoor Octagon Coffee Table with X Base

Materials

• 2 – 2″ x 6″ x 10′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″)
• 3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
• 3 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″) (You’ll need four 2×2’s if you can’t rip part of the 2×4 into a 2×2, see diagram)
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• wood glue
• sandpaper
• stain/top coat

Cut List

• 2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 39 1/2″ with 45 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram. (2×6)
• 2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 28″ with 45 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram. (2×6)
• 3 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 40″ (2×6)
• 16 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 15 3/8″ with 22.5 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram (2×4)
• 16 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 17 5/8″ with 40 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram (2×2)

Cut Diagram

Step 1: Make the cuts according to the cut list and diagram.

Split the 15 3/8″ 2×4 pieces into two piles of 8. Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material in both ends of 8 – 15 3/8″ pieces. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach 4 of the pocket hole 2×4 pieces to 4 of the non pocket hole 2×4 pieces (see sketch). Once joined together, they’ll make an octagon.

(***Hint for assembly: if your 22.5 deg cuts are not perfect, you may need to loosen pocket hole screws to fit the last piece, then you can tighten the screws again.)

Repeat to make a 2nd octagon.

Step 2: Attach the legs.

For all of the X legs that start on the right, measure about 1″ from the octagon point and 1/4″ in from the outer edge. Use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to secure X leg in place. Repeat for 8 legs.

For the 2nd leg, mark 3/8″ to the right of the octagon inside points and 1/4″ in from the inner edge. (see sketch) Use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to secure the 2nd leg in place. Repeat for 8 legs.

On the 2nd octagon, make the same measurement marks (1″ x 1/4″ and 3/8″ x 1/4″). Apply wood glue and flip the octagon with legs onto the 2nd octagon. Use 2″ brad nails to attach the X legs to the 2nd octagon. It’s ok if the X’s don’t line up with marks exactly.

Step 3: Attach the top.

Spread out the top boards 28″, 39 1/2″, 40″, 40″, 40″, 39 1/2″, 28″, leave a 1/4″ gap between each board. Place the X base onto the top and use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the top boards to the top support octagon.

Step 4: Finish

Fill any cracks, holes, blemishes and pocket holes if desired with filler and allow to dry. Sand the octagon table until it is smooth, finishing with 120-150 grit sandpaper. To get a weathered brown look, I first applied a coat of Weathered Wood Accelerator and allowed to cure overnight. I antiqued around the edges and lightly brushed the board faces with a very small amount of dark brown Kona stain. To blend the Kona, I use pre-stain conditioner and rub it over the Kona. Once the stain has dried, consider protecting the table with an outdoor sealer or polyurethane.

Thanks for pinning!

For more build plans check out Hertoolbelt:

More outdoor tables and projects:

bucket coffee table for the patio

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