How to Build an Outdoor Octagon Coffee Table with Lattice Legs (Remodelaholic)

Hi, it’s Amy from Hertoolbelt back with another DIY build for your outdoor space (or family room). I have some big plans for the back yard this spring and summer, including a new outdoor seating area. On the To-Do list is an outdoor coffee table for the seating area. The inspiration for this octagon coffee table design comes from this beauty. I love all of the X’s. Knowing this is going outside and will become weather worn, I greatly simplified the build. Building an octagon is so much easier than a circle, and I changed the X’s to a lattice effect (like my favorite bench).

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How to Build an Outdoor Octagon Coffee Table with X Base

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Materials

2 – 2″ x 6″ x 10′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″)
3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
3 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″) (You’ll need four 2×2’s if you can’t rip part of the 2×4 into a 2×2, see diagram)
2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
2″ brad nails
wood glue
sandpaper
stain/top coat

Cut List

2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 39 1/2″ with 45 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram. (2×6)
2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 28″ with 45 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram. (2×6)
3 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 40″ (2×6)
16 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 15 3/8″ with 22.5 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram (2×4)
16 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 17 5/8″ with 40 deg cuts on both ends, see diagram (2×2)

Cut Diagram

Step 1: Make the cuts according to the cut list and diagram.

Split the 15 3/8″ 2×4 pieces into two piles of 8. Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material in both ends of 8 – 15 3/8″ pieces. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach 4 of the pocket hole 2×4 pieces to 4 of the non pocket hole 2×4 pieces (see sketch). Once joined together, they’ll make an octagon.

(***Hint for assembly: if your 22.5 deg cuts are not perfect, you may need to loosen pocket hole screws to fit the last piece, then you can tighten the screws again.)

Repeat to make a 2nd octagon.

Step 2: Attach the legs.

For all of the X legs that start on the right, measure about 1″ from the octagon point and 1/4″ in from the outer edge. Use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to secure X leg in place. Repeat for 8 legs.

For the 2nd leg, mark 3/8″ to the right of the octagon inside points and 1/4″ in from the inner edge. (see sketch) Use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to secure the 2nd leg in place. Repeat for 8 legs.

On the 2nd octagon, make the same measurement marks (1″ x 1/4″ and 3/8″ x 1/4″). Apply wood glue and flip the octagon with legs onto the 2nd octagon. Use 2″ brad nails to attach the X legs to the 2nd octagon. It’s ok if the X’s don’t line up with marks exactly.

Step 3: Attach the top.

Spread out the top boards 28″, 39 1/2″, 40″, 40″, 40″, 39 1/2″, 28″, leave a 1/4″ gap between each board. Place the X base onto the top and use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the top boards to the top support octagon.

Step 4: Finish

Fill any cracks, holes, blemishes and pocket holes if desired with filler and allow to dry. Sand the octagon table until it is smooth, finishing with 120-150 grit sandpaper. To get a weathered brown look, I first applied a coat of Weathered Wood Accelerator and allowed to cure overnight. I antiqued around the edges and lightly brushed the board faces with a very small amount of dark brown Kona stain. To blend the Kona, I use pre-stain conditioner and rub it over the Kona. Once the stain has dried, consider protecting the table with an outdoor sealer or polyurethane.