Peter Lappin

Moving On From Shirts...




Readers, it seems like it's been all about shirts here at MPB lately.

Rest assured, I'm also interested in pants -- not to mention man-skirts.

One of the reasons I purchased vintage Simplicity 2395 (below), which arrived in the mail today, is because both the pants and the jacket look like they could work for either sex with very few adjustments. The pants are cut like the men's pants of the period, only with the tucks stitched down and no fly. It's much easier to find women's pants patterns from the Thirties and Forties than it is men's; there were very few printed.









If these look good, I'll change the waistband, add one or two double-welt back pockets, and see if anybody can tell the difference. Wouldn't they be great in a soft, drapey linen?



I also want to start experimenting with a higher rise on my pants, perhaps even -- are you sitting down -- up to my true waist. I predict we're going to be seeing more and more of this in the years ahead since we can't go any lower than we have been and leave anything to the imagination. Remember: you heard it here first!

I also like the Simplicity jacket (and the pattern includes a long-sleeve version). Lengthen and change the back somewhat and I suspect it would fit me. We'll see.



Getting back to shirts, aside from all that lace and my new paisley fabric, I've also been considering additional pattern mixing and thinking about fit.

I love my latest shirt but it's too wide (among other things).





I took the front pattern piece (from Professor B.'s pattern) and compared it with vintage Seventies Butterick 4575 -- ignore the left edge: that just reflects the extra fold of the simple turnback placket.



Here's Butterick 4575 sewn up.







I prefer this slimmer fit, though it could be a little fuller over the backside (perhaps a pleat up top so the fullness can increase toward the hips and below.

Then there's Vogue 8889. Maybe this one's too fitted. The armhole is high and the shoulder cap is cut steep. It looks nice but restricts my movement, especially when I cheerlead.









I'll probably use the Butterick for my final shirt for class (due sometime next month).

I may try another fabric combo (though probably without any lace). What do you think of the mint-green paisley with purple gingham?



Or do you prefer the paisley with black and white gingham? I have just enough of the latter to cut two shirt fronts. Maybe with solid black inside collar stand and inside plackets?



I also tried cutting a single lace flower and using it as an applique but it didn't look very inspiring.



So I have to sleep on all this a bit more.

Hopefully this weekend I'll have an epiphany and can start sewing.

Have a great day, everybody!
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