{ The Wild Bird } A Beauty How-To
In the octagonal, screened-in porch/tent/lobby/bar of Juma Amazon Lodge, I discovered vintage maps of both the jungle and the stars, plus a most beautifully illustrated book entitled A Descoberta Da Amazonia, an imaginatively and elegantly illustrated history of the forest’s native species and ancient tribes.
I’ve been unsuccessful in finding my own copy of it online, but I referred back to my many photographs of its pages in preparation for last week’s The Body Bahia story. I wanted Macy Nicol, our model, to look like the wild birds illustrated inside ~ if mixed in spirit with the human warriors also therein. There had to be a wildness to her plumage, a strength in her gaze and yet an innate fragility as well.
|ABOVE| outtakes from the story, which was shot by Jamie Beck on Impossible (polaroid) film |BELOW| the wardrobe, purchased at the studio of Márcia Ganem in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil
From makeup artist David Birdwell of Stila Cosmetics, I requested wild brows, haunting eyes and severe cheekbones; from hairstylist Justin Woods of Kersatase I asked for windblown, tousled and then tucked-back hair. Both gave me everything I’d dreamed of, and were generous enough to share their insider tips and tricks for recreating the look for your wildest occasions.
DAVID: I used black Kajal Eyeliner in Macy’s waterline, then applied deep burgundy Smudge Stick along her upper and lower lash lines. Using a liner brush, I blended the two together, creating a waterproof eyeshadow with which I could build up and shape the ultimate smoldering eye.
AT-HOME TIP: Make sure to use a very small liner blush and blend directly on the skin to avoid any gaps between the liner / shadow and your lashes.
DAVID: For the cheeks I used a combination of powders and creams. I began by layering Camellia Convertible Color and an iridescent bronzer to establish a warm and glowy complexion. Over that, I swept a powder bronzer on the high points of the face and contours for a sculpted, sun-kissed look.
AT-HOME TIP: Cream blushes mixed with liquid luminizers lend skin a beautifully healthy glow! To apply, always start at the top corner of your ear and blend down to the apples of your cheeks.
DAVID: For the lips, I used Dolce Liquid Lipstick for a nudish-bronze tint with a matte finish. When applying a matte lipstick, it’s especially important that the lips are exfoliated and hydrated first. After applying, I like to add a little Color Balm on top of the lipstick in the center of the lips, for a creamier finish that stays all day.
JUSTIN: To begin, I prepped Macy’s hair with Kerastase’s Ciment Thermique, which creates a protective base. I then curled large sections with a 1.25″ curling iron and pinned the curls to her head to let them further set, always spraying each section with a light mist of Spray À Porter (which is designed to create beachy waves without any stickiness) before setting.
AT-HOME TIP: For longest-lasting texture and curl, let the pinned curls sit for at least 10 minutes. During that time, apply a generous spritz of Lacque Dentelle.
JUSTIN: After Macy’s makeup was finished, I removed the pin curl set and brushed her hair out with my hands. This added texture while maintaining the messy, unkempt look we wanted.
JUSTIN: To pull the hair back, I started by French braiding the hair between the highest point of the head and the midpoint of the back of the head (leaving the side and back sections free), to create an anchor for all the other pieces to pin into. I teased out and loosely twisted back a few of the front pieces for a messier effect.
JUSTIN: From there, I continued gently twisting and pulling the side pieces into the anchor braid, folding the longer bits into loose spirals in the back and securing them with bobby pins.
AT-HOME TIP: For fine-haired girls who have trouble holding a curl, spray every section with Lacque Dentelle before curling, to give it extra grip, texture and memory. It’s a hairspray designed to work with heat and it ensures a much longer hold.
And voila! Everyone worked their magic and Macy Nicol became a quiet, ancient crane, standing tall and still on the great banks of the Amazon River, the silky white plumage of her sleek feathers like a crisp shot of steam against its muddy waters, flowing into infinity…
|CLICK HERE| to see the full results of this shoot
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