Nicole Miller Fall 2014

Scandal’s “The Warrior” was the only song that could rightfully close Nicole Miller’s Fall show, given that she looked to a collection of female heroes, including Japanese anime’s Princess Mononoke, to inform Fall. “Independent women who don’t need a business suit to feel strong” were the target, and with a series of all-black looks, she was right on it. A double-faced black coat, paired with etched leather pants, and a black leather biker jacket, worn over a neoprene miniskirt marked with feathers fastened to crystals, offered a tough girl her rightful armor.

Miller is skilled at executing on whatever her vision is for the season—not one piece felt out of place in the lineup. But there was a certain aggression to the clothes that could prove a challenge. A peacock-feather design felt too literal, a faux-leather jacket with heavily beaded sleeves too weighty. The designer would have benefited from paring back, even just a bit.