Né en 1895 à Getaria, au pays basque, Cristóbal Balenciaga est le fils du capitaine d’un luxueux Ferry, fréquemment privatisé par le Roi Alphonso XIII et sa cour pour se rendre dans la petite ville. Grâce à ses relations, la mère de Balenciaga devint rapidement la couturière attitrée des notables de la région. Cristóbal, lassé par son éducation religieuse (il se destinait à devenir prêtre, comme son oncle), s’intéresse de plus en plus à la mode.
Born in 1895 to Getaria, in the Basque Country, Cristóbal Balenciaga is the son of the captain of a luxurious Ferry, frequently privatized by King Alphonso XIII and his court. Thanks to his relations, the mother of Balenciaga quickly became the official needlewoman of the notables of the region. Cristóbal, jaded with his religious education (he intended to become a priest, as his uncle), became more and more interested by fashion.
En 1937, Cristóbal fuit la guerre civile et s’installe à Paris. Sa première collection de Haute-Couture est une claire réminiscence de la mode du XVIIéme siècle et du second Empire français. Les superbes broderies et passementeries sur des magnifiques robes du soir sont consacrées par Diana Vreeland dans Vogue, qui, dès lors, ne tarira pas d’éloges sur le créateur espagnol.
Marchioness Casa of Torres gives him a chance: at the age of 13ans, he creates a suit which immediately convinced her of his incredible talent. With its help , he leaves Getaria to study sewing in Madrid and opens its own house in San Sebastien at the age of 23. His creations are unanimously recognised by the court of Spain. Hardly two years later, he opens new shops in Barcelona and Madrid.
In 1937, Cristóbal runs away from the civil war and settles down in Paris. His first collection of Haute Couture is a clear recollection of the fashion of the XVIIe century and the second French Empire. The magnificent embroidery and the braids on evening dresses are dedicated by Diana Vreeland in Vogue, which, from then on, will not stop praising the Spanish creator.
Dans les années 60, il introduit des formes de plus en plus épurées et abstraites, sans ornements superflus. Ses collection sont, comme d’habitude, acclamées. Mais la démocratisation de la mode revendiquée par mai 68 ne correspond pas aux exigences artistiques de Balenciaga. La même année, après avoir dessiné les uniformes des hôtesses Air France, il annonce sa retraite. En 1972, Cristóbal crée la robe de mariée de María del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, petite-fille de Franco. La même année, il est enterré dans le petit cimetière de sa ville natale, Getaria.
While Christian Dior captivates the world with his » New Look », Balenciaga creates the surprise with fluid and rounded off lines and original volumes: the barrel line, the balloon skirts, the tunic, the « semi-adjusted » suit, arched in front, the sack dress or the baby-doll dress quickly became references. In 1958, the creator, who dresses crowned heads and big celebrities, is made Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur.
In the 60s, he introduces more purified and abstract forms, without unnecessary ornaments. His collection are, as usual, applauded. But the democratization of the fashion claimed by May 68 doesn’t fit with the artistic requirements of Balenciaga. The same year, after drawing the uniforms of the Air France hostesses, he announces his retreat. In 1972, Cristóbal creates the bridal dress of María del Carmen Martínez Bordiù, Franco’s granddaughter. The same year, he is buried in the small cemetery of Getaria, his home town.
After several years of silence, the house is acquired in 1986 by the Jacques Bogart group. In 1997, Nicolas Ghesquiére takes the head of the design studio: his collections are unanimous. With the help of Bouchra Jarrar, he draws the Motorcycle Bag, which launched the It-Bag trend. Bought back by Gucci and integrated into the PPR Luxury Group in 2001, the house knows a real revival. In 2012, Alexander Wang became the artistic director of Balenciaga.