Bonkuk Koo – A Conversation

I was able to meet designer Bonkuk Koo at his E 10th street showroom on one of the coldest days I can remember; although these days you can’t really pin point which days have been the coldest. We had connected through Linked in. I was enamored by his craft. The showroom is kept warm and cozy thanks to their wonderful chimney in the middle of the room. The FIT graduate and 2009 winner of the title “Emerging Fashion Designer of the Year by the International Design Award, walked me through his exciting SS 14 collection and previewed his recent fall winter collection. There I sat with the South Korean designer to get to know a little more about what makes him tick.

How do you stay inspired on a daily basis?

Between seasons, I am collecting materials and references from everywhere I go. It is not just related with art. It could be political issues or the first birthday of my friend’s daughter! I’m blessed that I’m easily intrigued by events and surroundings. For example, I accompanied a friend on a tour of the Empire State building. There I purchased a small snow globe. At first, I did not want it but my friend pushed me to do so. I’m glad he did cause my Fall/Winter 2014 collection main inspiration is the snow globe. Everything was started from an unexpected souvenir.

I turn off all lights without one table lamp. And I bring a glass of liquor (“On the rocks” whisky in summer. Red wine in winter) and playing music, can bring my emotion down. Then I started drawing lines. It is not just clothing, it could be everything from my head. Once I feel I am ready, then I start design my next collection.

What was the reaction to seeing your first design come to life?

I thanked God! Funny cause I didn’t believe at the time and now I am a believer. Because I am blessed to be able to do what I love to do. This is not happening to everyone and also this is nothing I can do myself. It feels at times like I’m having a helping hand.

What’s the creative process/ritual?

Two bad habits that I have. Step out of my office and have a cigarette and then drink a bottle of Coke! (not a pepsi)

A color you always gravitate to and why?

From the beginning of my design life, I can’t get rid of black black color (two black means the true black) from my head. There is no special reason for it. I think black is most natural color for me. Why? Because I just naturally find comfort with the color.

Do you design first or let the fabrics guide you?

I start designing from inspirations. Because I am living in New York! This is one of the great advantages of living in one of the biggest fashion cities in the world. But sometimes I find a special fabric that could give me a burst of inspiration. I call the fabric an inspiration not just a fabric.

Are you in favor or against the trend of designers collaborating with stores like Target or H&M? For example: Versace for H&M.

I think they are doing such a great job. I am not against what other designers do.

What’s your favorite accessory?

SCARVES and SOCKS! These are the only colorful items I want to have.

Where do you see your brand in five years?

Five years? That’s pretty short. I do not know how much I will change from now. However If I keep doing my business after five years, I hope to be where my eyes are set.

Any advice for other designers and overall artist living in NYC?

Just for designers, I heard this from one of my inspirational designers. “Do not start your own brand. But if you start then never give up.” I ignored the first suggestion. So I am trying to fulfill the second one.