1940s Skirt History: A-Line Classics to Summer Dirndl Skirts

Today's post 1940s Skirt History: A-Line Classics to Summer Dirndl Skirts from Vintage Dancer.

Skirts have always had a special place in fashion history being both a high and low fashion item. The 1940′s, with fabric rationing during the war, created limited wardrobes for women. The 1940′s skirt became not just a casual clothing item but one that all other wardrobe elements revolved around. They were the foundation item of every look a 1940′s woman wore in daily life.

Wartime 1940s Skirts

Simple A-Line Skirt of the Early 1940s

1940′s skirts were simple styles. War rating and restrictions in 1941-44 put a band on frills and ruffles popular on 1930′s skirts. To save on fabric, hemlines rose to just below the knee. Hems could be no more than 2 inches wide. Thin belts had to stay in place without belt loops too. Pockets were also not allowed. Fabrics were generally wool and rayon blends for both summer and winter. Colors were drab blues, grey, green and brown.

1940s Skirts with single pleat in the front

Although the width was limited to a 78 inch sweep, skirts generally were made with much less fabric. The silhouette was a boxy A-line. Placed at the natural waist and hung smooth over the hips with a slight flare at the hem, skirts were wide enough to move in but never very full or very tight. Kick pleats were added to the back of some tighter skirts to make movement easier. While pleats were not banned in the early years they certainly were not popular.

Post Wartime 1940s Skirts

Colorful Pleated Skirts in 1944

After the war ended and restrictions were finally lifted skirts added back in some of the special design elements. All around pleating was very common. Knife pleats, inverted pleats and box pleats were the most popular because they kept the skirt flat and smooth over the hips while adding volume at the hem. The overall shape was still A-line but pleating added a bit more swing to a woman’s step, a sign of post war joy. Colors brightened up with cheerful yellow, green, aqua, powder blue, and red.

1944 plaid skirts.

Colorful tartans and plaids were especially popular with teens. Since they didn’t need to wear a suit jacket with their skirts they wore cheerful sweaters, pullover tops and white blouses. The signature look for all teens in the 1940s was a white blouse, plaid skirt, and saddle shoes.

1940s teens wearing white blouses, plaid skirts and saddle shoes.

Late 1940′s Skirts

Lana Turner sporting a full skirt

After 1947, Dior’s ‘New Look’ started to exaggerate women’s fashion and the 40′s skirt took on even more volume. Petticoats were not required, although slips featured a bit more fullness at the hem. The skirt fullness was achieved with a wider A line cut and/or bigger box pleats. Large patch pockets were added to house skirts and big leather belts and ties were worn to make the waist appear smaller and hips fuller. Most colors were still plain (a versatile wardrobe was still necessary) but some stripes, checks, and floral prints started to appear in summer time looks.

Big Belts and Fuller Skirts of 1947

Big box pleats and striped skirts added fullness to skirts. 1947

1949 Fuller Swing Skirts

1940′s Peasant Dirndl Skirts

1940′s Peasant or Dirndl Skirts

Something interesting happened during the war years. The U.S. started to import clothing from Mexico. They were much cheaper and more colorful than anything women could make or buy in the States. The skirts were knee length and A-line but also featured the ruffles and trim missing from rationed skirts. They also had embroidery and lace edging in an array of bright, cheerful colors. Folk patterns and characters decorated many peasant skirts. They were a breath of fresh summer air during a depressing time in history.

1947 Dirndl Skirts with Lace Trim

After the war U.S. designers incorporated peasant skirts and blouses into summer fashions. Additional styles were borrowed from other ethnic regions such as South America and tropical Hawaii. The peasant skirt was usually called a Dirndl skirt for its similarities to Austrian folk skirts. Peasant dresses were made of matching skirts and tops too.

1947- Peasant Skirt with Giant Strawberries

Late 40′s dirndl skirts, especially those for teens, used less traditional ethnic patterns and instead turned to Americana folk arts. The large flowers and giant strawberries pictured on the left are two examples of these American art styles. It was these bold art prints that led to the 1950′s love of applique poodle skirts. It was also the dirndl skirt with its gathered waist band that gave way to the fully gathered circle skirt that dominated the next 10 years of fashion.

1940′s Pencil skirts?

Straight Skirts in the late 1940s

While a lot of credit is given to the 1940s for starting the pencil skirt trend its simply not true. Towards the very end of the 1940s skirts did get slimmer especially with suit sets. They can almost be called pencil skirts but they are more straight cut, not form fitting wiggle skirts. The tight skirt came about in the 1950′s. Read about 1950s style skirts here.

1940′s Skirts Today

1940′s Skirt and Blouse Look

One of the first 1940′s thrift store costumes looks I made was a simple 1940′s skirt and blouse. Pictured on the right, the blouse is a vintage late 1940′s top paired with a 1980′s pleated skirt, vintage summer hat and bead necklace. Nearly any pleated skirt, lightly gathered skirt or plaid A-line skirt from the thrift store can be a great start to creating a 1940s look. I am always on the lookout for A-line skirts to add to my collection. When shopping don’t forget to check out the 2 peice suits. The jackets are usually too modern but the skirts can be perfect.

For 1940′s reproduction skirts or vintage inspired styles there are some nice options available. Most vintage inspired skirts tend to favor the 1950′s circle skirt. For a genuine 40′s look it’s better to choose a knee length A-line style or dirndl skirt (if you can find one.)

Here are some pics from the 1940′s Style skirts shop page: