House on the Way

How to Create Board and Batten


Get Updated When House on the Way Has A New Post. Subscribe by email.

~Easier Than I Thought~

*Thank you to Ryobi for sponsoring today’s post. All opinions are 100% mine.

Did you notice the board and batten treatment on my bathroom makeover from last week? Can you believe that I did that? Can you believe that when I did that, I used a nail gun for the 1st time?!

It was so exciting! Yes…I got very excited when I used that nail gun. It was fabulous!

Now that my excitement has abated, I’ll share how to create board and batten in your home…

The first step in the process is planning. I researched online and found some great tutorials. I took a little of this and a little of that from several of them…based on what worked best for my bathroom. One thing that I did discover is that my method is more of a faux board and batten, because technically I didn’t used boards…just battens. The real wall of the bathroom acted as my “boards.”

Another consideration was that I wanted to use my existing baseboard. It matches the rest of the house and I really did not want to go through the trouble of replacing them. Classic battens are much thicker than my baseboard, so I took the advice of a few other DIYers and used lattice. It’s much thinner and fit perfectly with my baseboard. They look like they were made for each other.

For the rail, I chose a casing piece. It’s a little decorative, which works well with my existing baseboard and crown moulding that was already present in the bathroom. If I had went with a typical straight plate rail, it would not have worked with the style of my current moulding.

After I found my measurements for the bathroom, I decided to space my battens 16″ apart and I wanted the wall treatment to be 60″ tall. Within that 60″, I had to include the height of the baseboard and the plate rail. My baseboard was 5.25″ and the rail I chose was 3.25″, which meant the battens needed to be 51 1/2″ tall.

Once I had my plan of action worked out, I measured and cut my wood, beginning with the rail. I placed the top of the rail 60″ from the floor, made sure it was level and broke out the nail gun…the 18V One Cordless Brad Nailer from Ryobi.

Now remember…I’ve never used a nail gun in my life…but trust me, this brad nailer is so easy to use. I pulled out the instruction manual and studied it! I also visited the Ryobi website, which is a great resource to learn all there is about their tools.

*The most important thing to remember is follow the instructions for the tool and safety first!

I measured and marked 60″ from the floor. I placed and leveled the railing, securing it to the wall with tape, which helped to hold it when I went to nail it to the wall.

The nails should be put in to the wall at the studs, if possible. I added a few extra in between…I got a little nail gun happy!

After the railing is set, then it’s time for the battens. I used the tape again to set them. It also gave me a good idea of what the spacing would look like.

I also used a leftover piece of casing as a spacer between the battens. The actual space between the battens is 13″. The battens themselves are 1 1/2″, which combined with the spacing, totals 16″.

For the nailing of the battens, I nailed them at the top, bottom and in the middle. They weren’t all nailed to a stud, so I added a few extra nails on the ones I felt needed it.

Once all the nails were placed, I used wood filler to cover the holes. After the filler was dry, I sanded it smooth and no more nail holes.

Next came the caulking, which I have to tell you I have always hated doing! I tend to make a mess of it. So this time, I did more research…calling on tips from others.

Let me show you what worked for me…

First, I cut the tip of the caulk at a slight angle and very close to the tip. In the past, I’ve cut the tip higher up on the tube, which makes a larger bead of caulk. By cutting closer to the tip, the bead of caulk will be smaller, which for me, means less mess.

Working in small sections, I laid a thin line of caulk and used my finger to smooth the caulk. I also found that if I dipped my finger in water first, it seemed to help get a smoother line.

You can also use a damp paper towel to lightly clean any excess caulk on the wood or wall.

Once the caulk was done, it was time to paint. I painted the trim, walls and batten in Luminous White by Sherwin Williams.

The board and batten treatment looks amazing with my stenciled walls. It also makes the small bathroom seem bigger and the ceiling taller.

It looks fabulous and was a lot easier than I anticipated! It’s a great project to try out that new nail gun on…

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Today’s 10 minute Touch-up…

Since we’re talking about trim and baseboards, spend a few moments in a room of your choice and clean your baseboards. They can get so dusty and dirty and it’s an area of our home that doesn’t always get the attention it needs. In 10 minutes, you can wipe down your baseboards in at least one room.

Touch it up and make it better!

Want to follow the 31 Days of 10 Minute Touch-ups from the beginning? Start here

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

*Thank you to Ryobi for sponsoring today’s post. All opinions are 100% mine.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Linking to:

Design, Dining & Diapers, Between Naps on the Porch, Uncommon Designs

The post How to Create Board and Batten appeared first on House on the Way

  • Love
  • Save
    2 loves
    Add a blog to Bloglovin’
    Enter the full blog address (e.g. https://www.fashionsquad.com)
    We're working on your request. This will take just a minute...