NYFW: DESIGNER RECAP SS15 – PART 1

This last NYFW was certainly one of the strongest I’ve ever seen here. Unlike the women’s collection’s, often tagged as very commercial, the men’s shows offered an energised and creative vision balancing between the London designer’s (Nasir Mazhar, Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Raeburn, Agi & Sam) and the Italian perfectionists (Bottega Veneta, Zegna, Gucci…). Discover my favourites now (second part on Monday). Patrik Ervell People love categorizing designers in what seems often to me outdated labels. Patrik Ervell’s collections offer a subtle mix of tradition, cool and futuristic features. His pieces, perfectly tailored, are extremely sharp (just look at his pants for example) and always play with textures and unusual materials (rubber shorts last summer, pvc jacket next season). I love how these silhouettes are effortless (first look). Hood By Air Shayne Oliver has definitely entered a new dimension. Considered as an outsider a few seasons ago, the brand has already established its own visual language mixing weirdness, unrefined yet polished detailings and post-romanticism. He recently said “It’s not even about masculinity. It’s about raw and powerful pieces that have abrupt styling and techniques of looking a certain way, and also what social meaning pieces have in general” . Wearing HBA is less about belonging (…)