Testing "The Goss Method" for Foundation
For those of you who don't already know him, Wayne Goss is a makeup artist and a prolific, popular beauty youtuber. I'm always particularly amused by his hyperbolic video titles, which include names like, "HELL JUST FROZE OVER! PLEASE WATCH!", "WTF!!! THE LIP SCRUB YOU AIN'T GONNA WANNA MISS!", and "FOREO: SKIN CLEANSING OR SEXUAL PLEASURE?! BOTH ACTUALLY-- REALLY!" I always have this vision of Wayne Goss happily yelling at me through my computer screen about concealer.
As much as I enjoy watching random youtube tutorials while I do the dishes, it's rare that someone gives a tip that is truly unique or transformative. Although there is joy in seeing a thousand perfect smoky eyes, very few people stop in their tracks and go, "Holy shit! Brown eyeshadow!"
In March 2014, Wayne Goss released a video called, in his usual fashion, "THIS FOUNDATION TIP CAN CHANGE YOUR LIFE".
You can watch the whole video here, but I'll also walk you through it for those who like to skim.
I won't go so far as to say that it is life-changing, but it's definitely unconventional. So unconventional, in fact, that it goes contrary to every piece of makeup advice you've ever heard: put on your powder, Goss recommends, before you put on your liquid foundation. In his video, Goss says, "I know that we're told, 'We don't apply liquids or creams over powders.' This will work fine. All of that moisturizer, primer, whatever (you put on first, will be) locked into the skin with a powder."
You probably don't need any new products to give it a try. Goss notes, "All you'll need is your moisturizer or primer and anything else you put on your skin, you'll need a powder and you'll need a foundation." He recommends that you start with your primer and moisturizer and get it all rubbed in. Then, if you want, you can add something shimmery and liquid. "I know you think it's mental," he says, "but you powder your face first. Take the brush and powder over all this moisturizer and primer." Goss advises you use "a loose powder, not a pressed one". He continues, "Powdering it, even with a translucent powder, will add a small amount of coverage. If you use a powder that has a little bit of coverage to it, skin tone, you will get more coverage on your face for area that are problematic." He adds, "…what will happen is: a. you'll need less foundation. You will absolutely not use anywhere near the same amount of foundation. You will find that, if you're no very dark under the eyes, you certainly won't need to use concealer. But it will fill in and cover and stay on the skin. Your foundation is going to stay all day long now… (and) it will cause the foundation to set immediately." Finally, Goss suggests, "If you have oily skin, it will be a good idea for you to add a fraction of powder just down the T-zone."
This idea got a lot of positive attention on the internet machine, probably in large part because it's so "what the fuck" for makeup lovers. People had to try it to see if it was some elaborate April Fool's prank to give everyone on Reddit's MakeupAddiction a serious case of cake face.
I've actually been playing with this foundation method for a long fucking time; I started when the video first came out. At this point, I have a lot of feelings. However, it's hard to get a really good sense of a foundation method without a side-by-side, and I simply haven't seen one for this technique.
So, I did one.
Goss makes a lot of claims about this method. Broadly speaking, I would say there are three overarching ones:
1. You will use less foundation.
2. You will get more coverage.
3. Your foundation will last longer.
I'm going to deal with each of these.
You Will Use Less Foundation
This was pretty easy to check thanks to my unreasonable precise scale.
First, I divided my face neatly in half, (using nail striping tape, actually) like so:
I won't go so far as to say that it is life-changing, but it's definitely unconventional. So unconventional, in fact, that it goes contrary to every piece of makeup advice you've ever heard: put on your powder, Goss recommends, before you put on your liquid foundation. In his video, Goss says, "I know that we're told, 'We don't apply liquids or creams over powders.' This will work fine. All of that moisturizer, primer, whatever (you put on first, will be) locked into the skin with a powder."
You probably don't need any new products to give it a try. Goss notes, "All you'll need is your moisturizer or primer and anything else you put on your skin, you'll need a powder and you'll need a foundation." He recommends that you start with your primer and moisturizer and get it all rubbed in. Then, if you want, you can add something shimmery and liquid. "I know you think it's mental," he says, "but you powder your face first. Take the brush and powder over all this moisturizer and primer." Goss advises you use "a loose powder, not a pressed one". He continues, "Powdering it, even with a translucent powder, will add a small amount of coverage. If you use a powder that has a little bit of coverage to it, skin tone, you will get more coverage on your face for area that are problematic." He adds, "…what will happen is: a. you'll need less foundation. You will absolutely not use anywhere near the same amount of foundation. You will find that, if you're no very dark under the eyes, you certainly won't need to use concealer. But it will fill in and cover and stay on the skin. Your foundation is going to stay all day long now… (and) it will cause the foundation to set immediately." Finally, Goss suggests, "If you have oily skin, it will be a good idea for you to add a fraction of powder just down the T-zone."
This idea got a lot of positive attention on the internet machine, probably in large part because it's so "what the fuck" for makeup lovers. People had to try it to see if it was some elaborate April Fool's prank to give everyone on Reddit's MakeupAddiction a serious case of cake face.
I've actually been playing with this foundation method for a long fucking time; I started when the video first came out. At this point, I have a lot of feelings. However, it's hard to get a really good sense of a foundation method without a side-by-side, and I simply haven't seen one for this technique.
So, I did one.
Goss makes a lot of claims about this method. Broadly speaking, I would say there are three overarching ones:
1. You will use less foundation.
2. You will get more coverage.
3. Your foundation will last longer.
I'm going to deal with each of these.
You Will Use Less Foundation
This was pretty easy to check thanks to my unreasonable precise scale.
First, I divided my face neatly in half, (using nail striping tape, actually) like so:
I then layered on my pre-foundation products. Although Goss doesn't mention sunscreen, y'all know I am a sunscreen addict. I started with EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46. Above that, I put Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. Finally, I layered on Smashbox Photo Finish More Than Primer Blemish Control. I was like a human parfait: all about the layers.
On one half of my face, I added a layer of Bare Minerals Mineral Veil. Then, I added my foundation: Wet'n'Wild's Coverall in Fair. (I went full Goss and used my fingers to apply.) On the Goss-free "conventional" side, I added the same Bare Minerals Mineral Veil to set my foundation. (I didn't add any to set the Goss side.)
I weighed my foundation usage.
The conventional side used 0.196g of foundation to get adequate coverage of my blemishes.
The Goss side? A comparatively low 0.152g.
Obviously, this is a single trial, so I can't promise you thousands of dollars of savings or anything, but this claim does appear to be true. Using the Goss Method likely will save you on foundation.
I think even more notable than the difference in foundation, though, is the relative ease of application. Using the Goss Method, your foundation won't mix with the underlying layers, which can cause streakiness and a frantic need to blend.
You will get more coverage
I used less foundation, but how was the coverage? I left off all other face products (contour, blush, highlight, concealer, etc.) so that there was no distraction from the foundation.
Unfortunately, I didn't have the forethought to take makeup-free photos of my face on each side, but I can promise you that each side of my face has similar levels of acne and scarring.
Here's how the conventional foundation method looked:
Both sides look fine, honestly. I think the biggest difference is the finish. A Goss Method face will have a finish that is most characteristic of the foundation. A conventional face will have a face that is most characteristic of the setting powder.
I'd call this claim "inconclusive", although it's not implausible, especially with a lower coverage foundation. Again, though, I did also use less foundation, so if I was especially skilled at layering on many coats of foundation, I probably could get more coverage without using more product.
Your foundation will last longer
Finally, I wanted to see how the foundation wears.
The weather was 97 degrees Fahrenheit and raining: perfect for a foundation stress test.
12 hours after application, here is how the conventional half of my face looked:
You can see that there is definitely some acne scarring that has unburied itself from its shallow skin-toned grave. It's still mostly covered, but it's starting to become visible.
The Goss method:
Happily, the scarring has not re-appeared here! However, there is a caveat when you get super up-close-and-personal with my skin:
The pinker part is my natural skin chilling underneath.
There's a little cakiness going on. The Goss Method isn't always cake-free. It's minor, but it's also definitely only on the Goss side and not on the conventional side. If you look, you can see that there is foundation sitting on the skin.
I think I would still call this better, especially given how faint the foundation appearance is on the Goss Method side, but I want to make sure that the trade-off is noted.
I have used the Goss Method now countless times and this is actually the third side-by-side I've done, each with a different foundation (it's the first I've photographed). This is the first time I've had this problem. It's also the most extreme weather in which I have attempted the Goss Method. If you're going to be in an office all day, I'm guessing that there will be less cake-related risk involved.
I'd call this claim "true", with the caveat.
Miscellaneous Other Notes
Based on my experiences over the last few months, I do have a few modifications on Wayne Goss's initial advice about what kind of products to use. I find that really, really boring foundations typically work the best. If your foundation is too liquid or too thick or too moisturizing, your results simply won't be as appealing. The one time I tried to do it with a tinted moisturizer, it was such an awful mess that I had to wash my face. Stick with the medium-to-full-coverage foundations that seem remarkably similar to every drugstore foundation ever.
I've also found that, despite the initial warning to use a loose powder, many pressed powders do a wonderful job. What is important is that the powder is very finely milled and that not a ton of powder comes off onto your brush. The Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders, for example, do a very nice job.
Overall, I think this technique is a wonderful tool, even if it's not witchcraft. It allows more customization on the finish of your makeup and it does stretch your foundation for longer. It can help with makeup longevity. I think it's especially helpful for heavy sunscreen users: anyone who has struggled with putting on large quantities of sunscreen and then layering makeup on top should especially give it a go (I originally intended on giving this post a slightly different focus and calling it "How "the Goss Method" for Foundation Saves Sunscreen).
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