I went to the market in Venice yesterday, gathered winter citrus & fresh eggs—the sun, the eye, some strange warmth in the dead of winter—and walked back to my friend Skye’s family home through the narrow streets and over marbled bridges that arch canals the color of eyes that waver so undecided between green & blue. I felt light of step and grateful and safe and all manner of things one would hope to feel from time to time. I laid the citrus out when I returned, and they, the mandarins and oranges and lemons so spread upon the marble kitchen island with the spectres of branches still clinging to their stems, struck me as summer trying to communicate from the grave. Like Persephone sighing somewhere down below. Summer, I thought, haunts winter. And I felt warm.
I hovered back and forth from the kitchen (where my friend, and incidentally very talented chef, Aaron was doing, if I’m honest, most of the work) to the little wooden table by the window where I was photographing and styling, and before I knew it, it was time to bake them off. Many hands, as they say, make light work. The meringue was whipped into glossy clouds. Positively shiny. And that’s why I love Italian meringue, and it seemed only fitting given that we’re in Italy.
I always opt for an Italian meringue, be it my Tennessee kitchen or elsewhere. It’s only a small extra step, and well worth the minimal effort for a meringue that really lasts & behaves. An Italian meringue is, essentially, whipped egg whites in which you pour a simple syrup cooked to the soft ball stage. It won’t weep, and the syrup “cooks” the fluffy whites, rendering them shiny & sturdy.
Meringues require, naturally, the separation of a fair amount of yolks from the whites (I always save the yolks for custard or bread pudding or some such other yolk heavy thing). Everyone has their way of doing this, but one of the nicest ways saves you from dirtying either your hands or anything else: using the halves of the shells to pass the yolk back & forth allowing the whites to fall down in to a bowl. It’s a pleasant, tactile process. I love separating eggs. It always makes me think of Bataille. There’s a video from Samsung’s #ChefSecrets series below for those of you that haven’t given this method a go before. And if you want to head over to Instagram they’re having a contest that involves giving away a shiny, new fridge. You can create a video or photograph to enter; it’s well worth a shot.
Ingredients
Instructions
This post is brought to you by Samsung. Try one of our top #chefsecrets tips next time you’re whipping something up. Terms and details of the contest available here.