Rhonda Buss

Monday Morning Inspiration


One of my favorite authors is Edgar Allen Poe. As often as I have read his work, I still keep a dictionary near by as there are so many words that he uses that are sadly no longer a part of, at least the common day English language. Language was used to create subtle differences. The same can be said for sewing techniques. It's easy enough to pleat a full skirt, or just gather it up, but what about cartridge pleating? Cartridge pleating can become a design detail, or it can be used as it was traditionally. Below you see cartridge pleating as a design detail.



Here you see cartridge pleating used to control the fullness over the shoulder.
You can see cartridge pleats used in graduation gowns and choir robes. The picture below is a great example of how the pleats allow for the fullness, but also keeps the fullness from rising up as it would in traditional gathering.
Below is a different take on a pleating detail that I thought was rather interesting. I think this is a Chanel garment. I love the tiny sequins between each pleat.
Although this is not a vintage garment, it's a great example of how cartridge pleats were used in skirts to control the gathering.
This is a vintage garment. The cartridge pleating gives a very fitted look to the top of the sleeve before it explodes.
You've seen this example before in a pocket inspiration post. A little difficult to wear something this large on the hips, but interesting nonetheless.
I thought this example was especially pretty.
Cartridge pleats used to create cuffs.

Totally avant-garde.
Here are a couple of examples from my own wardrobe.
A little dress with a 1920's vibe.
Rather than cartridge pleat the fullness, I did a number of gathering rows. This is a much simpler way of achieving basically the same effect.
The sleeves on this suede jacket are done in the traditional cartridge pleating manner.
Here you can see all the tiny little tucks.
If you would like to give cartridge pleating a try, I found this website,
http://historicalsewing.com/how-to-sew-cartridge-pleats The explanation is the best that I could find. This is a great tutorial especially if you think that you might want to do a period costume at some point.
And finally, this is not cartridge pleating, but when I was searching for examples, I came across this jacket and I thought the design lines were just so pretty. Thought you might like to see it too :)
Have a wonderful week!
Rhonda
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