Helena Glazer

Skincare: My Exact Routine + Answering all of your FAQ's



After my first two skincare posts (how to properly wash your face and a roundup of my miracle products), I received a lot of questions. Rather than answering them all in the comment section, I figured let me tackle them all in a separate post! So, lets get right to it!
What is your exact routine & in what order do you use the products? I should probably preface this by saying that I enjoy the process and don't like to rush through it. I know we're all busy, but it's one thing I make a conscious effort to do. You get one face and if you want it to look good as you get older and older, it takes work. Sure, genetics play a major part, but if there's something else I can do, I'm on board.
With that being said, my routine can seem like a lot, but it's what works for me! I wake up, cleanse my face. I don't normally use a cloth in the morning, but I'll use a milky cleanser on a dry face, massage in for a minute so I can really get the circulation going and rinse off. Right now I'm using the Lait from Biologique Recherche, but I wouldn't necessary say it's a life changing product. I like it a lot and would probably repurchase, but I'm not like "wow, my skin cannot live without this." After I cleanse and dry my face, I use an exfoliating toner. Depending on what my routine is going to be that night, I'll decide if I want to go with something a bit stronger, like the P50 or something milder, like the CircCell pH Perfector. Either way, I'll reiterate that I'll always use an exfoliating toner. It helps prep your skin for the next stage and as Caroline Hirons says, not using one is like putting on a coat of paint without a primer. I let that absorb into my skin for a few minutes (3-7 minutes, depending on how much time I have) and in the meantime, apply my eye cream. Lately, I've been alternating between one from Skinceuticals and my other favorite, which is way too expensive (but I really love it) so I use it sparingly, the YSL Temps Majeur.
After cleansing, toning and eye cream, I apply a serum or an oil. I alternate between some of the amazing serums from Biologique and lately, Sunday Riley's Juno. I've been using the Juno for the last month and I have to say, I absolutely love it. It makes my skin glow and just makes me look well rested. I like to switch up my products, so some days I'll reach for one and some days I'll reach for the other. On days I feel like I need some extra moisture, I'll apply a bit to my entire face (let it soak in for 2-5 minutes) and on some days, I'll mix into my moisturizer. As far as my moisturizer, during the day I've been using one from Goldfaden MD and have been really happy with it. During the colder months, or when my skin needs an extra pick-me-up (read: if I drank too much the night before…) I'll finish it off with the Fluid VIP 02 from Biologique. The Fluid VIP is an incredible product, but because it's so expensive, I reach for it when I really need it. During the warmer months, it's not a must, whereas once it gets cold, it's back in the rotation on a daily basis. It helps seal in the moisture and protects your face from extreme weather conditions and pollution.
At night, if I've been wearing makeup all day or sunblock, I'll do two cleanses. I'll start with the Emma Hardie cleansing balm. Apply on a dry face, really work into your face to breakdown all the crap and then wipe off with a muslin cloth that I wet under warm water. After that, I'll gently use the Biologique Lait cleansing milk again to use get all the excess stuff off. Once my face has been washed and dried, lately, I've been going one of two ways: I'll follow the same routine as the morning: P50, serum, moisturizer or for my second routine, I'll skip the P50, use a milder toner like the CircCell and use Sunday Riley's Good Genes, another product I've been using for the last month absolutely loving. I cannot rave about it enough! I'll then follow with Sunday Riley's Juno and Biologique's Creme Dermopurifiante.
I'm also very into masks and use them about 3-4x a week. I alternate between Biologique's Masque Vivant and VIP 02 and I also love Alpha-H Liquid Gold Mask. For the Alpha H Mask, since it's has a fairly strong percentage of glycolic acid, I don't use the P50 with it but again, one of my milder toners. On nights when I'm doing a mask, I do it before my entire routine. It's gotten to a point where I have to warn my husband "PS: doing a mask today, so don't be scared!.." he'll comment and complain to which I reply "do you want an ugly wife? I don't think so.."
Something to keep in mind: for those of you who are wondering why I don't use the P50 at the same time as some other treatments (like Alpha-H products or the Sunday Riley's Good Genes), it's because while so many people consider the P50 a miracle in a bottle, which it is, it's strong and you don't want to go overboard. When using the P50, I let that be the hero acid/exfoliating product during my routine. Does that make sense?

How do I use the P50 and why does it smell funny?
When I first started using the P50, I followed the directions on the bottle and gently patted my cotton pad all along my face, neck, and chest area. After a week and after realizing that my skin already had a very high tolerance for acids, I now generously wipe the pad versus just a gentle pat. Also, I never use cotton balls as they soak up way too much product. I prefer cotton rounds.

For those of you who emailed me or commented about the smell, in general, Biologique products don't smell that great. That's just the simple truth! But from all of the P50's, the original '1970' formula smells the worst of them all due to the phenol ingredient. It smells like burning rubber bands and if it was my favorite version, I wouldn't even care, but personally, I prefer the newer formula, which has no phenol. It's extremely effective, yet somewhat gentler than the 1970. I will say, some people prefer the original 1970 formula, so it's a matter of finding out which is best for your skin. If you still have any questions, I recommend calling Rescue Spa and speaking to someone about which one might be best for you.
To Sum Up…..
So, I know that's a lot of info (once again) and I use a lot of stuff, but it's what works for me! My skin has never looked better and while I still get a breakout right before my period or when I fly (so annoying), it's night and day compared to how it used to be. I'm happy with my texture, I'm more confident, I'm not freaked out to be at a lunch meeting in the bright light and my skin has a much healthier glow.

With that being said, it's not 100% where I want it to be. I still have some light marks that were left over from some nasty breakouts and while the use of acids have helped tremendously, some marks just wont go away. I've been speaking to some extremely knowledgeable friends and some derm's and all suggested I get a peel to really get deep there. So, I'm thinking about it and have been doing lots of research on that. Keep you guys posted on that subject!

In the meantime, let me know if that answers your questions! Hopefully this post didn't bring up a series of new questions but if so, feel free to ask in the comment section and I'll be sure to get to all of them! I know my blog is mostly about fashion, but I've been trying to incorporate a lot more beauty/skincare as it's something I'm so incredibly passionate about!

Wishing you all a wonderful holiday weekend!
xo, Helena
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