PFW DAY IIIII/RECAP

The fifth day of Paris Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Acne, Viktor & Rolf, and Commes des Garçons. Here are some of the highlights.

Not unlike Lanvin, Haider Ackermann had combined sleek elegance with a youthful edge and lots of punk attitude. Pleated lamé skirts were matched with daring see through tops and fluid suit jackets, while black python shorts came with long billowing tails of lace. The model’s messy hairdos and dramatic black make up added to the show’s punk edge.

There was an air of effortless elegance and fresh functionality to Acne’s new spring collection. The straight cuts and soft silhouettes made everything look casual and comfortable, while the artistic details and sharp tailoring brought a dressed and sophisticated touch to it. Crisp cropped pants and fluid shorts were matched with well-cut suit jackets and long, loosely fitted shirt dresses, finished off with a slouchy knitted hat and sporty platform sandals. Mostly rendered in black, white, and blue, the collection was punctuated with splashes of bright red and yellow, as well as a few abstract multicoloured prints.

Viktor & Rolf were not the only ones who had looked to the street and schoolyards for inspiration this season, yet few have rendered it with the same finesse. Classic school uniform pieces such as pleated skirts, neat suit jackets, and pullover vests were updated with studs, safety pins, emblems, and mesh. A sleek silk top was decorated with a bright blue graffiti print, while another one was embellished with safety pins in neat grids, and a third came fully covered with sharp silver studs. Elegantly matched with a knee-length skirts, ladylike handbags, and black slip in pumps, the collection was a perfect cross between posh and punk.

Expressive and evocative, Commes des Garçons’ show was not so much a fashion show as it was an art performance. Though they are worn on the body, Rei Kawakubo’s mesmerizing creations have more in common with sculptures than with garments. Yet, it is precisely the fact that she creates fashion and not art that makes her work so intriguing. Dark and menacing, yet playful and imaginative, the Commes des Garçons spring show was like stepping into a nightmarish wonderland. The dramatic shapes and surreal silhouettes in tandem with the model’s smeared dark lipstick and snake-like head dresses made a collection that was as seductive as it was startling.

Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt