Goodbye Valentino

DVF Cotton Lace Skirt

Just a skirt?…… Not to me!

When the DVF floral bordered cotton lace arrived on my doorstep last Spring from Mood Fabrics, I knew it deserved the royal treatment, but I didn’t expect this special fabric to be in queue for nearly a year.

Greetings from Scottsdale, Arizona, the new hometown of my daughter and son-in-law. It’s only 2,019 miles away from South Carolina.

I once heard Susan Khalje say that she could keep someone busy for an entire week sewing a pencil skirt. Now, I know what she means, for I spent one week making my couture pencil skirt. The skirt consists of 4 layers – the lace, cotton oxford, silk organza and bemberg rayon lining.

I cut the fabric on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the scalloped border. Then I spent a day securing the oxford to the lace so it would behave as one piece of fabric. In the beginning I knotted and clipped my thread after each stitch, but found that simply knotting was enough.

The silk organza became layer number 3, which was basted to the lace and oxford cloth. In couture sewing the seam line is traced onto every pattern piece and seam allowances are generous. Since this is my 5th Katie Spade skirt to sew, I was tempted to skip this step and cut a 5/8″ allowance. Now I am thankful I followed the rule as all of the layering can affect the fabric edges and throw off the entire fit of the garment.

The pattern, modeled after the Kate Spade Judy skirt is truly my favorite skirt to sew with no front darts and beautiful shaping along the side seams. The waistband sits at the waist and is not only comfortable but perfect for those rare tuck-in occasions. I may move the zipper to side the next time around.


Sadly, this lace is no longer available, but here is a link to Mood Fabrics’ lace. The oxford cloth was from my stash, and the whisper white silk organza and bemberg rayon linings are readily available from Mood.

I intended to make a two piece dress for my daughter’s Bridesmaids’ Luncheon last August using the vintage McCall’s pattern 8500. While the event has changed my pattern intentions have not, and I hope to be back soon with the second half of my outfit and an entirely different look!

Best wishes

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