DIY horizontal cables: a one piece sweater
chunky knit red cables
As I pointed out in my previous post, red, cables and chunky knits are on my radar for this sweater weater!
I love, love LOVE this yarn: the black speckles over the red mohair make me think of a watermelon!
Inspired by all the cables seen around, and these.
left: COS (from last season)
top right: tahkistacycharles.com (free pattern) bottom right: store.vogueknitting.com
I loved the cables in the COS sweater, but I really don't wear dolman sleeves. They sure look good, but to me, they are absolutely uncomfortable under jackets and coats. So my version is a non dolman-sleeve, knit in one piece with a wider boat neck.
* 5-1/2 balls of Tahki Yarns - Saratoga - Red # 60.
* Single Point Knitting Needles, Sizes 3.5mm (US 4), 4mm (US 6) and 4.5mm (US 7)
I wanted to use the the yarn I won at the fair over the summer, but with two balls, I couldn't go too far. This yarn is discontinued, but fortunately I was able to find 5 more balls from a Raverly member.
(and I also got a ball of the same yarn in grey on Ebay... which for now is sitting in my stash basket, but will eventually become something!)
Horizontal cables one piece sweater: the how-to // tutorial
* cast on 45 stitches (wrist)
* 4 rows tubular - needles size 3.5mm
* 8 rows rib 1:1 needles size 4mm
* switch to needles size 4.5mm
The plait/braid cables are 15 stitches wide, separated by reverse stockinette.
The plait/braid cables are mirroring each other with alternate cable every 10 rows.
Increases and decreases are done always at the time of the cabling of the plait/braid, to avoid extra counting.
1st & odd rows: P7 - K15 - P1 - K15 - P7
2nd & even rows: K7 - P15 - K1 - P15 - K7
PLAIT / BRAID CABLE
9th row:
P7 - sl next 5 st. to cn and hold in front, K5, K5 from cn, K5 - INC1 - P1 - INC1 -
K5 sl next 5 st to cn and hold in back, K5, K5 from cn - P7
Keep knitting, increasing every 10 rows in between the plaits/braids:
* at the moment of the 13th increase in the center, increase 4 more stitches: 1 (each side) at the beginning/ end, and another one on the external side of the plait/braid.
* Reach 17 stitches on the sides and 21 stitches in the center of the plaits/braids, ( total stitches 85) and reach the desired length of the sleeves.
* cast 59 stitches on each side using the provisional cast on method, and you'll have 203 stitches on your needles - on the right side you'll have:
P16 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P21 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P16
Work all 203 stitches for 18 rows,
19th row (on the cable): //
NECKLINE DECREASES (at this point you'll have two separate pieces on your needles. Is up to you if you want to work it separately or together: Although there are a lot of stitches, I prefer to knit all together to avoid the need of keep the row count twice)
P16 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P10 - DEC1- P10 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P15 - K15 - P16
at the next cable:
Decrease 1st on each side of the neckline // repeat for 2 more times always at the cable//
then decrease 1st only on the side that will be the front of the sweater for 3 times.
The next 8 rows in between cables, represent the exact middle part of the sweater.
From the next cable, everything will be done in reverse, therefore INCREASE where was a DECREASE and viceversa.
Once reached the top part of the second wrist, use a tapestry needle to do the invisible bind off.
Sew the two sides.
This sweater has an oversize fit: see all the measurements below (I'm a size 2).
Bottom hem:
Cast on 210 stitches on a circular needle size 3.5mm, work 4 rows tubular, then with circular needle size 4mm work 8 rows rib 1:1, and sew onto the bottom with a tapestry needle and a back stitch.Neckline:
boat neckline detail
Pick the stitches around the neckline (193 st.) and work with a circular needle size 4 mm in 1:1 rib for 8 rows 4 rows tubular with 3.5mm circular needle.
Close with the invisible bind off using a tapestry needle.
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