Easy C2C Crochet Kimono Sweater Made from Rectangles – Free Pattern!

A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, on-trend sweater in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with written line-by-line C2C instructions for $2.99 here.

This free c2c crochet kimono pattern is part of a collaboration with my friends at LionBrand.com. This post contains affiliate links.

I’m so excited to share this corner to corner crochet kimono pattern with you for two reasons. First, my mom and I designed it together and the finished product actually turned out better than I had hoped. How often does that happen? Unfortunately, not very often around here. Secondly, I hope this short sleeved cardigan gives a glimpse into what is possible with C2C crochet. (Hint: It’s not just for blankets!)

How to Corner To Corner Crochet

If this is your first time using a c2c crochet pattern, be sure to take a look at the photo and video tutorials below to learn the basics. These tutorials cover how to crochet the diagonal box stitch, which is what is used in corner to corner crochet as well as how to change colors in c2c crochet and some tips for managing your yarn.

VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C

PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

And here are a few more free corner to corner crochet patterns you might enjoy:

A Beginner C2C Crochet Pattern

Believe it or not, this crochet kimono pattern is actually deceptively easy because the stripes are created using the natural bias that forms with C2C. There aren’t a ton of colors to wrangle or ends to weave in, which means this cardigan works up quickly with minimal fuss. This is not one to be intimidated by!

You’ll crochet three C2C rectangles, sew them together and then add sleeves and ribbing directly to the kimono (with no additional seaming!)

The rectangles can be worked directly from the free graph patterns linked below or, if you prefer written C2C instructions, you can grab line-by-line instructions for the graphs in the ad-free printable PDF. If you’ve never read a corner to corner crochet graph pattern before, check out this tutorial.

A Yarn All Crocheters Must Try!

I cannot wait to tell you about this new yarn! Honestly, sometimes I find myself thinking “What can be done in yarn “innovation” really? I mean, isn’t an acrylic an acrylic an acrylic?”

Well, Lion Brand has really shut down my ponderings with their new ZZ Twist yarn, which is shockingly 100% acrylic, yet you’d never be able to tell from touching it. In fact, I was at a party recently and a knitter (who–let’s be frank–are sometimes a bit more snobby about yarn than crocheters) asked it if was silk! It’s that soft and floppy.

In addition to being extremely smooth and drapey, this yarn is wound in the opposite direction most yarn is, which apparently makes it even easier for specifically crocheters to use. I know, weird, huh? I never thought that made a difference, but this yarn is truly a dream to work with and somehow is also really affordable. You can shop all the gorgeous, saturated colors here.

Free Range Corner To Corner Crochet Kimono
Free Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with graphs line-by-line C2C instructions HERE.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites or queue HERE.

Pin it for later HERE.

Explanation:
Corner-to-corner crochet isn’t just for blankets! In this pattern, the easy and speedy diagonal box stitch (C2C) and flatteringly soft and drapy yarn come together for a garment that’s surprisingly simple to make. You’ll take advantage of C2C crochet’s diagonal nature to almost effortlessly add visual interest to the back of the kimono, while keeping the pocketed front clean and on-trend. Pair it with a swimsuit, leggings or jeans for a comfortable, relaxed kimono that can transition from season-to-season.

If you’ve never tried corner-to-corner crochet before, there are several free video and photo tutorials listed below. This is a relatively easy first C2C pattern to try.

Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
• Lion Brand ZZ Twist (Weight: 4/medium – 246 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Main Color: Taupe (#763-122) – 8 (10, 10) skeins
– Accent Color: Ecru (#763-098) – 1(1,1) skeins
• Graph patterns for C2C rectangles (print here) Optional: written line-by-line graph instructions in the ad-free PDF
• Tapestry needle
• Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes:
Size: S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X)

Length of finished garment: 27.5” (28.25”, 28.25”)

Fits Bust: 32-38”, (40-46”, 48-54”)

Fit is intended to be oversized. Size down for more fitted look.

Model is 5’9” with a 36” bust and is wearing a S/M.

Gauge:
2.75” = 4 tiles
Each tile = approximately .69”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
bpdc – back post double crochet
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
tch – turning chain
tile – one c2c box in a graph (6 total chains 3 double crochet)
WS – wrong side

Additional Corner-to-Corner Crochet Resources:
• Help with learning corner-to-corner-crochet basics can be found here:

VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C

PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

Overall Pattern Sizing Notes:
• All c2c graphs are worked using a double crochet stitch.

• Pattern is written for smallest size with larger sizes following in parenthesis. S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

• Before beginning, make a c2c square with 6 tiles on each side. Measure four middle tiles in each direction and average the result to check gauge. This is very important in ensuring garment fit.

• As in any c2c rectangle or square, all rows in pattern begin with either increasing or decreasing. This pattern refers to “increasing” as adding one tile per row. The first half of any square or rectangle involves increasing at the beginning of each row. Once you have finished longest row in graph, each row will begin by “decreasing.” A decrease row eliminates one tile from each row, thereby creating a flat edge on the side of the decrease.

MAIN KIMONO PIECES

Using a double crochet c2c stitch, follow graphs to create one Left Back, one Right Back and two Fronts in appropriate size. If desired, written, line-by-line C2C graph instructions for each size can be found in the PDF.

JOINING KIMONO PIECES

Notes:
• All vertical seams are worked from bottom of the kimono upward.

Lay Left Back and Right Back down so that they are forming an arrow as in photo below. Using a tapestry and single strand of main color yarn, use mattress stitch to join both pieces along center back. Add an additional tapestry needle and strand of accent color yarn when first accent color tiles are reached. Use appropriate color yarn to seam each section of back tiles.

The side facing you is now the WS. Continuing with WS facing up and mattress stitch, seam a Front piece to each the Left Back and Right Back. On each side, fasten off after 25 tiles have been seamed so that 15 (16, 17) tiles remain for the armhole. With both WS facing out, seam shoulders in same fashion, beginning at outer shoulder and working toward neck.

POCKETS

Using main color, make 2 corner-to-corner squares that measure 11×11 tiles. To reduce number of ends to weave in, simply keep yarn attached at end of making pocket and either set aside or move directly onto the “Pocket Ribbing” section.

SLEEVES

Notes:
• Sleeve is added by seamlessly adding an additional C2C rectangle to the armhole of the garment and then seaming. If this part causes confusion, please see the detailed photo tutorial in ad-free PDF for step-by-step instructions (right and left-handed tutorial included).

Attach main color yarn near armhole at side seam. See photo below for specific instructions on placement.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, sl st between first and second tiles along armhole (tile made). (1 tile)

Row 2: Ch 3, sl st between second and third tiles, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working 1 additional c2c tile; turn. (2 tiles)

Row 3: Work a typical increase row of c2c tiles; at end of row: sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge.

Row 4: Ch 3, sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working additional c2c tiles to end of row; turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until additional rectangle is 6 (6,7) tiles high. This is the corner, so decrease tiles will now be worked for all rows that begin at the end of sleeve. This is exactly like working the rectangles for back and front pieces, but bottom edge is of sleeve rectangle is just attached to the garment.

Continue working in pattern until c2c tiles encircle the armhole and you’re back at Row 1. The last tile will now form the second underarm sleeve edge.

Work additional rows of c2c tiles, beginning with a decrease stitch for all rows now, until rectangle is complete. Do not fasten off. Move on to sleeve ribbing below.

RIBBING

Notes:
• Ribbing is worked the same for the bottom, front/collar, sleeves and pockets.

• If you’ve never done post stitch ribbing before, you may want to check out this video tutorial. While it’s for a different cardigan, the technique of working post stitches is the same. (See the 14:00 mark to learn about ribbing.)

• Ch 3 always counts as a dc.

• When working Row 1 of ribbing, place stitches at the following intervals:

• 3 dc in each vertical tile. (This will look like the short side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked into 3 dc of C2C tile.)

• 2 dc in each horizontal tile. (This will look like the long side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked under ch 3 of tile.)

Sleeve Ribbing

Begin with RS of sleeve facing out. Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn in right corner. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn in left corner.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Sleeve corner, using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off leaving a 20” tail to sew sleeve seams. Repeat ribbing on second sleeve.

Bottom Ribbing

Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Left Front. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Right Front. Begin ribbing with RS facing.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Front corner, using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2, but do not turn.

Do not fasten off. Move on to collar ribbing.

Collar Ribbing:

With yarn still attached from bottom ribbing, Row 1 of collar ribbing is worked again with RS of kimono facing out. Ribbing is crocheted up front edge of garment, around back of neck and down opposite front edge.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first vertical row of bottom ribbing, 2 dc in each of next 3 vertical rows of bottom ribbing; dc around to beginning of bottom ribbing on opposite Front corner using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off.

Pocket Ribbing

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across one side of pocket square using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off leaving 36” tail. Repeat for second pocket.

FINISHING

Sleeve Seam

With WS of garment facing out, use tail from sleeve ribbing and a tapestry needle to mattress stitch underarm seam. Repeat on second sleeve.

Pockets

With RS of garment facing, pin pockets to Fronts as pictured in photo below. Note that RS of ribbing should be facing out once folded over and pinned on.

Using tail from pocket ribbing and tapestry needle, whip stitch pocket to Front. Repeat with second pocket.

I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.

More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns Tutorials

Here are more free crochet cardigan patterns from Make & Do Crew you might enjoy. Find all my sweater patterns here.

1. Day Date Cardigan – simple crochet sweater made from two hexagons video tutorial

2. Habitat Cardigan – easy pattern made from a rectangle video tutorial

3. Alchemy Cardigan – lightweight sweater with very detailed video tutorials

4. Remix Cardigan – easy pattern made from deconstructed yarn cakes video tutorial

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