Runway Report: Roberto Cavalli Fall 2015

It’s no secret that Italian design is all about extravagance. Just take one look at Anna Dello Russo’s flamboyant Milan fashion week ensembles – pulling off an embellished cutout body-con dress and giant fruit headpiece is no small feat. Well, at least for us not-of-Italian-gene-pool variety, that is.

Florentine fashion designer Roberto Cavalli is no stranger to this exotic taste, this year reaching as far as the orient for inspiration. Taken by actress Maggie Cheung’s costumes in the Hong Kong film In the Mood For Love, Cavalli transported traditional Chinese floral motifs on to everything from embroidered tulle and chiffon dresses, to boxy jackets and silk blouses. Particularly taken by Cheung’s windowpane-check cheongsam, Cavalli combined the black and white pattern with western materials and cuts, creating checked cropped fur jackets and sequined pants. The cheongsam’s customary high neckline was also a dominant design element throughout the eclectic collection.

It wouldn’t be a Cavalli show without a dose of animal print and sex appeal, however; a combination winningly achieved in the collection’s first look: a leopard print mini-dress topped by a fur-collared maxi-coat. Short skirts were commonplace, while longer dresses were fitted with high slits, low backs and triangular cut-outs at the waist.

Cavalli’s mix of textiles and detailed fabric manipulation were also noteworthy, in particular his ombré chiffon-plissé gowns; the fabric so elegantly pleated it draped away from the waist like rippling water. Floor-grazing fringe, ruffled neckties, and flared trousers were also prevalent throughout the 53 looks, a – seemingly obligatory for fall 2015 – ode to the ‘70s.