Chartres with Malcolm Miller, Centre International du Vitrail, mini DIY Stains

Yesterday I took the 1-hour train ride to CHARTRES CATHEDRAL from Gare Montparnasse.

I haven't visited since my first trip to Europe at 18

After visiting SAINTE CHAPELLE I'm obsessed with the glazed colors in stained glass windows.

Chartres has some of the finest stained glass and flying buttresses galore but one needs help with this huge, massive and magnificent cathedral.

I was very lucky indeed to catch brilliant, Chartres scholar, MALCOLM MILLER at his mid-day tour (1hr15 minutes - 10€ cash please). Show up INSIDE the church near the bookstore. At 11:55 I promise you will be lead in the best possible way through a multitude of biblical stories and historic vignettes with great wit and knowledge.

Miller 'reads' Chartres for you. There was no paper or books and few read or could write when the church was rebuilt after the 1194 fire. The stained glass panels are full of drama and Miller is a masterful storyteller.FYI the panels are read bottom up and from left to right.

I couldn't resist drawing his lively, animated profile. Miller's been leading Chartres tours for 58 years and says he still learns something new every visit.

Do try to catch him. It will be an unforgettable experience.

I'm thinking of returning next week. FYI you can't reserve ahead unless you want a private tour. Just show up at 11:55. C'est comme ça.

I grabbed a quick salad across the street at Le Café Serpent 2, Cloître Notre-Dame

Service is fast and friendly. Besides I fell in love with their enormous teapot collection as soon as I hit town.

I wished I hadn't wandered aimlessly around town in the morning, comme d'habitude seeking out the local ice cream..

But had instead headed over to the

CENTRE INTERNATIONAL DU VITRAILL, just behind the cathedral 5, rue du Cardinal Pie

A stunning collection of Renaissance stained glass awaits

With full explanations in clear English of how stained glass was processed and colored, baked.

Plus a room of all 176 panels from Chartres

Are illustrated and labeled.

You'll relive the vivid stories Miller tells all over again.

Especially interesting was this reconstructed portion of a Chartres panel. So much more is revealed up close you can't see inside the church.

Of course I came home and got out my watercolors. There's more yellow at Chartres then Sainte Chapelle perhaps.

Thank you for subscribing to the Paris Sketch letters and maps. I'm enjoying painting your glazed watercolors. It seems I've turned into a pilgrim seeking more and more stained glass.
Tomorrow I'm off the the cathedral at Reims. Let me know if you have any tips PBers.