Build a Farmhouse Style TV Console/Sideboard
A few months back, we shared this console table on Instagram as one of our #imaremodelaholic features — and you all LOVED it just as much as we did! You know we love the barn door style Xs (see here and here) and the plank details is just perfect!
So we contacted the builder, Johnny of The Gritty Porch (and his co-designer, his wife Jessica) and they agreed to share all the details of how they built it — including building another one to take plenty of photos for you all! Johnny and Jessica were inspired by two pieces by our amazing friend, Ana White — this planked sideboard and the Grandy sliding door console — which they combined to make this beautiful farmhouse style planked rustic X console! A huge thanks to Johnny and Jessica for sharing their amazing work today — be sure to check out more of their beautiful teamwork at The Gritty Porch, and you can also follow them on Instagram and Facebook to see more.
Following their detailed photos and instructions, Justin sketched up some plans so you can build your very own rustic sideboard or console this weekend!
How to Build a Farmhouse Style TV Console or Sideboard
designed by The Gritty Porch, plans by Remodelaholic
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- Table Saw
- Circular Saw
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measure
- Pocket Hole Jig
- Rubber Mallet
- Nail Gun
- Air Compressor
- Lumber – 2×4’s, 2×8, 2×10’s, 2×12’s
- Lumber – 1×6’s,
- 1×6 Tongue and Grove Boards
- 2” #8 wood screws
- Pocket Hole Screws
- wood glue
- 16ga 2.25” Brad nails
- Paint (optional)
- Stain (optional)
- Base Frame
- (2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 84″
- (2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 16 1/2″
- (2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 13 1/2″
- Top Frame
- (2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 84″
- (6) 1″ x 6″ x 33 1/2″ Tongue and Groove Boards
- (2) 1″ x 6″ x 1 1/2″ Tongue and Groove Boards (ripped to width)
- (18) 1″ x 6″ x 33 1/2″ Tongue and Groove Boards
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 9 1/4 x 86 3/4″
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4 x 86 3/4″
- (5) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″
- (2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″
- (1) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 85 3/8″
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 9 1/4 x 86 3/4″
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 9 1/4 x 86 3/4″
- (2) 3/4″ x 5″ x 17 1/2″
- (1) 3/4″ x 5″ x 89 7/8″
- (2) 3/4″ x 4″ x 17 1/2″
- (1) 3/4″ x 4″ x 89 7/8″
- (6) 3/4″ x 24 1/2″
- (2) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 26 1/2″ – 20° ends
- (4) 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 13 3/8″ – 20° and 50° ends
- (2) 3/4″ x 4″ x 19 3/4″ – mitered on both ends
- (2) 3/4″ x 4″ x 91 3/8″ – mitered on both ends
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ x 92 1/2″
- (1) 1 1/2″ x 9 1/4″ x 92 1/2″
- (4) 11/16″ x 11/16″ x 91 3/8″ – 45° miter
- (4) 11/16″ x 11/16″ x 19 3/4″ – 45° miter
Base and top framing
Base frame: Using 2X4’s. Two 2×4 84” runners/stretchers with two 2×4 16.5” cross ends, one each end. Two 2×4 13.5” centers placed at 28” measured from the inside of each side cross end. Repeat this for the top frame. Use 2” #8 wood screws and wood glue to frame.
Cut four 1×6 tongue and groove boards to 33.5” in length. Start attaching three to the base frame sidewall with 2” #8 wood screws and glue. Two screws per board. Rip the fourth tongue and groove board to 1.25” in width and save the other half for back wall as a starter board. Attach with one wood screw and wood glue. Repeat this for the other base sidewall.
It’s helpful to have a rubber mallet so that you can tap each board snug as you go attaching boards together
*Run a bead of wood glue down each groove when putting together tongue and groove boards.
Connecting top frame
Flip the base frame so that it is now on top. Place some wood glue on the sidewalls where the top frame will be placed. Place the top frame between the sidewalls and make sure all aligns (use clamps to hold sidewalls to top frame). Use 2” #8 wood screws to attach. 2 screws per board.
Connecting back wall
Now you can start the back wall by using the other half of one of the ripped sidewall boards, it is approximately 4” in width (you are welcome to use full width tongue and groove board, just adjust last rip cut board size based on what is needed). Start on one end and work your way to the other end. Total of 18 boards for back wall with a height of 33.5” and this includes the ripped starter board and end board. Attach using wood glue and the same 2” wood screws (I start the first board with two screws on the top and bottom and then one screw on top and the bottom for the rest of the boards). The last back tongue and groove board will need to be ripped to a width of approximately 3.5”.
*Measure last board with rip cut as it could vary slightly in width needed and cut accordingly. (Tongue and Groove boards often have a slight bow and vary in this, and this can throw off measurements slightly on widths/rip accordingly on end cuts)
Adding bottom shelf and making support frame for middle shelf
First add in a 2×10 cut to 86 ¾”. Glue this down and screw with same 2” screws. One screw on each back corner that screws in to the 2×4 frames and another two at about 28” away from the sides towards the back. Do this also for the front end, one screw each side and one screw each to attach to center frames which are approximately 28” from each side. Next add the 2×8 cut to 86 ¾” and glue down and use one screw on each corner attaching to frame and also on screw for each of the front and back to attach to the center frames.
Next build the shelf supports for the middle shelf. Cut five 1×2’s to 10.5” and place on each corner and one in the center (about 43.5” from one side for center) of the back wall of the inside of the console as shown in the picture with wood glue and 1.25” finish nails. Cut two 1×2’s to 16.5” to run across the tops of the side supports, fasten with wood glue and finish nails. Cut one 1×2” at 85 3/8” to run the back wall on the tops of the supports and fasten with wood glue and finish nails.
Next place one pocket hole on the fronts and backs of the top frame as seen in the pictures so that you can later attach the top of the console. These pocket holes can be placed at 1.5” away from the front and back framing on all center and side frames.
Next constructing and placing in the middle shelf. Cut one 2×10 at 86 ¾” (back end) and one 2×8 at 86 ¾” (front end) and join together with wood glue and three HD pocket holes and screws. One on each end at about 2” away from the ends and one in the center. This will give additional support to the shelf and keep from bowing in the long term along with support frame. Now you can slip in on top of support frame for the shelf and fasten to shelf support frames with wood glue and screws (or use 16ga 2.25” nails) on each corner and one on the back wall center (approx.. 43.5” from one side).
Now for the Decorative trim and x-frames
Rip 1×6 boards to 1×5” and cut two pieces to 17.5” in length, one for each exterior side wall. Attach with wood glue and finish nails. Next cut another 1×5” board to 89 7/8” to place at the front of the bottom console and covers the edges of the fronts of each of the 17.5” side 1x5s (no need to cut a 1×5 piece to add to the back).
Now repeat these same side and front cuts using 1×4 boards for the top part of the console. This is two 17.5” boards one for each side and one 89 7/8” piece for the front.
Next cut six 1x4s at 25” to run vertical on the on each end of the sides and fronts to create the shaker/framed look. Attach using wood glue and finish nails.
*if you love to join a lot with pocket holes you could join these pieces as face frames first and then add as one piece per side and front.
Next construct X’s. Using 1x2s mark for two pieces at 26.5” and parallel miter cut at 20 degrees on each end for each piece. Next mark four 1x2s at 13 3/8 as the longest side and miter cut one end at 20 degrees and the other end at 50 degrees for each of the four pieces. Attach as seen in the pictures using wood glue and finish nails.
Next the next bottom layer trim using 1x4s. Two 1×4’s, one on each bottom side, cut at lengths of 19.75” mitered in on both ends at 45 degrees. Attach with wood glue and finish nails. Two 1x4s cut at lengths of 91 3/8” mitered in at 45 degrees on each end for the front and back of the bottom of the console.
Adding the Top
Cut one 2×12 to 92.5” (this is the back end) and cut one 2×10 to 92.5” (front end) and join with 3 pocket holes and screws. One on each end about 2” away from ends and one in the center.
Center the Top and attach with glue and pocket hole screws, in the pocket holes made earlier. Paint or stain as desired and done!
*If you are painting or staining in two tones, it’s helpful to wait to attach top until after finishing.
Decorative cove trim for top and bottom (.69” cove molding purchased at Lowes)
Four pieces cut at 91 3/8 lengths and mitered in at 45 degrees.
Four pieces cut at 19 3/4” lengths and mitered in at 45 degrees.
Take two of each size and attach to the bottom and tops as seen in the picture using wood glue and finish nails.
Paint or Stain or Both
Looking for more stylish console tables and sideboards to build?
You can upcycle one:
or build one, too: