DIY: A Stylish, Modern Wooden Pegboard (Remodelista: Sourcebook for the Considered Home)

After admiring Julie’s wooden pegboard from Germany (as seen in Remodelista: The Organized Home), I hinted to my husband, Chad that it make a lovely Christmas present. He, being a wood-working hobbyist, decided it would be easier to make one himself.

Not quite.

Without directions or guidelines, designing and executing a pegboard so that everything lines up cleanly takes a lot of thought. Fortunately, my husband has done the work for you. Chad now has three such boards under his belt. Total time to make one? About four or five hours. Not easy, but definitely doable in one day.

Here’s Chad’s how-to.

Supplies:

Above: Birch plywood is made from sheets of wood veneer that are “cross-banded”—with the at perpendicular angles—and bonded with exterior grade glue, resulting in stronger board. It’s also among the more beautiful plywoods, with a smooth, light surface and distinct grain. Chad bought his baltic birch ply at Home Depot. Speciality lumber yards might have even more choices.

Wood and hardware

1 piece of ¾-inch thick birch plywood (approx 24″ x 48″) for pegboard or base
1 piece of ½” thick birch plywood (approx 24″ x 48″) for shelves
4-6 ¾” thick oak wood dowels (approx 36″ long) for pegs
1″ wood screws for shelves
4 long (1¾”) wood screws to screw the backboard into the wall studs

Tools

table saw
chop saw
drill
countersink drill bit (#6)
bench vise
drum sander
hand sander
belt sander

For a more manual approach one could use a circular saw and hand saw, but these tools would make it hard to achieve even edges.

Step 1: Sand Base Board

To avoid slivers, lightly sand the edges of ¾” plywood base.

Step 2: Create Template

Above: When designing you own board, a few pre-cut pegs can help you visualize the layout.

Design – Decide how big to make your board, how many holes, and the ideal spacing of the holes. Look around on the web to see what others have done. Or you follow Chad’s template below.
Create a template – Especially if you want to make multiple, uniform pegboards, it’s helpful to create a template. Tape a sheet of paper, equal in size, to the front* of your board. Measure and mark you spacing.
Drill through the paper with a small bit, to mark the center where you will drill your larger peg holes.
Remove paper and save in case you make another board.

*Typically birch plywood has a back side that is less aesthetically pleasing. Be sure to select the cleaner side as the front.

Above: Note that the border is measured from the edge of the board to the center of each hole. Once a larger hole is drilled, the border will be less than 2 inches.

Chad’s template using a 24″ x 48″ plywood board:

2″ borders
6 evenly spaced horizontal holes 4 inches apart from center to center
12 evenly spaced vertical holes 4 inches apart from center to center

Above: This detail shows the small center holes that mark where to drill larger peg holes.

Step 3: Drill Holes From Both Sides

Above: When drilling holes, make sure your drill bit is perfectly perpendicular to the board, otherwise your holes will be too big and your pegs will be loose.

To avoid holes in your work table, place another piece of cheap or scrap plywood under your baseboard.
Using the smaller holes from the template as your guide, begin drilling the larger holes with a 11/16″ drill bit. Note: pegs are typically slightly smaller than ¾” so 11/16″ bit provides a tighter fit; however, you may need to use the ¾” bit instead.
To avoid splitting the plywood, drill just until the bit begins to poke through. Don’t drill all the way through.
When all holes are drilled from the front, turn the board over and finish each hole from the back.

Above: Sample of larger holes drilled part way.

Above: Example of the finished holes drilled from the back side.

Step 4: Sand Holes

Above: Example of sanding each hole.

Use the drum sander to gently clean up the rough edges in the holes.
Don’t over sand or your pegs won’t fit tightly.

Above: Completed base board. You’re half way there!

Step 6: Cut 6-Inch Dowls or Pegs

Above: When using saws, be sure to wear safety goggles and keep hands clear of the blades.

Use hand saw and bench vice, or use chop saw to cut dowels into 6″ pegs. Some will be used just as pegs; some will be used for shelves.
Hand sand the edges of each peg to avoid splinters.

Step 7: Cut 6-inch Lengths for Shelf Boards

Above: Chad cuts the shelf boards.

Using table saw, or circular saw if by hand, to cut 6″ strips from the ½” birch plywood; you will use this wood to make the shelves.

Step 8: Cut Shelves into Three Widths

Above: Cutting the shelf widths.

Calculating shelf widths is a bit awkward with this project because they will be determined by the number of holes each shelf crosses.

First decide how many single (straddling two holes), double (between three holes), and triple more or shelves you need.
Determine if you want the sides of your shelf boards to overlap the pegs underneath or rest flush with them. Chad and I decided that we wanted a 1 ½” overlap.
Measure and mark each length of shelf.
Cut with chop saw.

Step 9: Sand Shelves and Pegs

Above: Once cut and sanded, the edges of your shelves with have a nice textured grain.

Hand sand the edges of each shelf and peg to avoid splinters.

Step 10: Drill Holes in Shelf Pegs with Countersink Bit

Above: Chad begins to drill a hole for the shelf pegs.

Based on how many shelves you have, determine the number of pegs that need screw holes. You’ll need two per shelf.
Secure pegs in a vice.
Marker the center of the peg with a pencil.
Using a #6 countersink drill bit (so screws will be hidden from view), drill one* hole at the center of each shelf peg.

*Chad recommends one hole for beginner pegboard makers, as a single screw will allow the pegs to pivot a bit in case one’s peg holes are slightly off. For more advanced makers, two holes are more secure. Chad recommends these be drilled 1 ½” and 4″ from the front edge of peg.

Above: Sample of countersink hole drilled with countersink bit.

Step 11: Screw Pegs to Shelves

Above: Shelf assembly.

Once you’ve completed all your drill holes, use a measure to mark peg placement, so that each is ¾” from the front of the shelf and 1″ from the sides.
Gently screw in each peg, so as not to split the shelf.

Step 12: With Countersink Bit, Drill Holes in Each Corner for Hanging

Above: Countersink drill hole used for hanging the board.

You are finally ready to hang your board!

Measure and mark one inch from the top and side edges of each of the four corners of the base board.
Using the same countersink drill bit as above, drill a hole in each corner.
Note: if your walls are drywall or similar material, they may not be able to support the weight of the board. In this case you should use a stud finder to identify where to hang your board. Make sure to adjust the placement of your holes accordingly.

Step 13: Drill Base to Wall

Above: I hung my pegboard over my desk.

Place your board in desired location and use a level to make sure it’s straight.
Secure to wall with four 2″ screws.

Step 14: Arrange Shelves and Pegs

Above: Pegboard complete!

Now is the fun part. Arrange shelves as desired and place items on shelves and pegs.

Above: In addition to storage for office supplies, my pegboard serves as a mini gallery for my childrens’ scultptures.

Looking for more pegboard inspirations? See:

Remodelista Editor

DIY: A Stylish, Modern Wooden Pegboard