An Italian Getaway in Soho: Cafe Altro Paradiso

Maybe because it’s one of those rare NYC neighborhoods that feels a bit Continental, Soho has always been a preferred stomping ground of cosmopolitan Europeans. It’s not at all unusual, in fact, to spot a Vespa or two chained up somewhere along Prince Street.

Fittingly, in 2013 restaurateur Thomas Carter and chef-partner Ignacio Mattos opened hip wine bar Estela at 47 West Houston Street—technically Nolita, but let’s face it, it’s really just Soho East—to eager epicures and rapturous reviews. A bit of the Mediterranean in Downtown New York, their small plates charmer became an instant buzz magnet, even hosting Barack and Michelle, and making The New York Times’ top ten for the year.

Now they’ve taken their Italophilia a little further west, to the very Soho Square restaurant hub long renowned as home to Silvano Marchetto’s perpetual celeb faves Da Silvano and Bar Pitti. Carter and Mattos’ opened their new Café Altro Paradiso (which appropriately translates to “Another Paradise”) this February at 234 Spring Street, and the latter remains an exuberant champion of the neighborhood.

“There has always been great energy in Soho,” he enthuses. “We are at the intersection of some of the most historic and creative neighborhoods in the city, and suffice it to say we’re very happy to be here.”

Just slightly more formal than Estela, Altro Paradiso does delightfully unexpected takes on Italian classics. For starters? Carpaccio rustico with arugula and horseradish, or maybe grilled cuttlefish with Calabrian chilis. For mains? Whole roasted poussin with pole beans, farro and ramps, or perhaps roasted mackerel with “pepperonata” and beans. Pasta aficionados must face the difficult choice between, say, lasagnette with chanterelle mushrooms, and the even-delicious-sounding Mezzaluna di noci with brown butter and sage.

Mattos enlightens, “We take inspiration from all over Italy. More than anything, we want to channel the careful, soulful handmade traditions we’ve seen during our travels while making it all fit our style. A lot of thought and effort goes into the food, but it is presented without pretension. We apply a very light hand.”

What’s most striking about the David Sullivan designed space is the effortless wedding of breezy, Mediterranean chic, and contemporary Soho cool. With its warm woods, whitewashed walls and prodigious windows, the light-flooded room could as easily be in Positano as on Spring Street.

Lunch service was recently added. But it’s also the perfect place to just pull up to the bar with a Prosecco or crisp Piedmontese rosato and plate of Prosciutto di Parma. And maybe pretend you’re in Rome, or perhaps Capri.

Yet Mattos insists Altro Paradiso is a very Soho, NYC sort of restaurant.

“We feel it really fits the neighborhood.”

Words by Ken Scrudato

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